Archive: Dec 2014
If you’ve been following along since the beginning you would have seen me making a plan on how to start, customising my shoe last, making a pattern to fit my customised shoe lasts and finally a post full of pictures of my first…read more
Now that I’ve conquered my fear of knits, I decided to try Thread Theory’s Finlayson Sweater. They have an entire sew-along tutorial on their website, so I won’t bore you with a lot of construction details.
I like that this pattern can be made up two ways, with either a shawl collar or a hood. Personally, I’m not the hoodie and kangaroo pocket type, so I went with the shawl collar. LL Bean used to sell a rag wool sweater with a shawl collar. I think I wore it till it fell apart, so it’s nice to have a replacement.
This is a lightweight acrylic knit that I picked up at Metro Textiles in NYC. Metro is one of those fabric haunts that’s very “hit or miss”, but can be worth the elevator ride up to the 9th floor (I think). The owner, Mr. Kashi, is very helpful and low pressure. While I was visiting he pointed me towards some gorgeous Japanese mens shirting, unfortunately not in colors that I would normally wear. One actually had a contrasting border running down the selvedge that could be used for inside the cuffs or neck band. Pretty cool, and silly cheap at something like $6/ Yd.
I went for this teal blue sweater knit, also $6.
I purchased the PDF version of the pattern. I work entirely off an ipad these days, and I struggled to find an app that would open the zip files. There are some seriously useless apps out there! I could get the directions, but not the actual pattern. Arrrgh!!! Matt and Morgan were SO supportive of my dilemma and pointed me in the right direction. (The solution was iZip BTW) Once that obstacle was surmounted it was clear sailing.
The pattern calls for an optional contrasting back neck facing. It’s a good opportunity to use up some of those scraps that I just can’t seem to throw away! It’s also just a nice touch.
As you can see here my collar / placket isn’t perfect. The pattern has separate upper and lower collar pieces, the upper collar being just slightly larger to allow for the turn of the cloth. I decided to understitch my collar to keep the seam out of sight. In retrospect I should have stopped the understitching about 4″ from each end. That way it wouldn’t show where the collar twists. Speaking of the collar, I’m not entirely convinced that the directions are right. Then again, I may be misinterpreting the diagrams. If you make this sweater, I’d spend some time playing with it so that your upper collar really ends up on the outside.
I “Snug Hugged” the raw edges inside. They could be zig zagged or serged, which would probably be a lot easier. I’m just sort of addicted to Snug Hug.
The neck seam can be covered with bias tape, twill tape or even shoelacing!
What else did I do? I shortened the arms by 2″ and the body by 1″. It went together easily and I will definitely be making it again, next time in significantly more luxurious materials. Stay tuned.
In the meantime I have a shirt I want to make.
As always, I wish you happy sewing!
Session 3 – Lesson 2So Sorry! I disappeared for a while there! I wrote this weeks ago and didn’t have it quite finished so here it is at last. These past weeks, I talked about pressing tools and how to use them. Needless to say, a good…read more
|The culprit- La Belle Assemblee, April 1811
Regency Drapey Bits
I MADE A PAIR OF SHOES! The good news is the kit was awesome and I’m so proud of how the final shoes look. My pattern was also a winner and covered up my wide feet nicely.The bad news is I stuffed up the size of the insole which is one of the firs…read more
For my last-of-the-year Britex blogger project, I chose the pattern first: the unusual and lovely design from Decades of Style, the Collar Confection blouse. The blouse design is interesting and a bit more challenging than a basic top, but still very doable! The blouse style dictates a fabric with drape, but it also must be fairly opaque because there are facings along the armholes. Thisread more
I gave all the kids new tops this Christmas. I wanted them to have something fun to wear on Christmas day, and I wanted to give them something I made, because that’s what I do! I had special ordered the Minecraft fabric weeks before through a Facebook Group called Affordable Fabrics. It came just before Christmas, so worked out perfectly to make the boys’ tops. And then Ivy, who couldn’t careread more
Jeg har lavet en mini-me med omvendt fortegn. En maxi-Wilma.
Som det vist fremgår af tidligere indlæg, er jeg ret forelsket i Wilmas ‘Marthe’, og har derfor ladet mig inspirere deraf til en mig-udgave. Jeg kunne selvfølgelig bare have snuppet den nemmeste løsning og investereret i Marthe mønstret til voksne – men jeg har altså valgt at lave min egen fortolkning.
Som stort set alt andet, jeg for tiden syer, har jeg taget udgangspunkt i Simplicity 1366. Jeg kan forhåbentlig glæde nogle ved at fortælle, at dette vidunder af et mønster lige nu kan erhverves til den nette sum af $1,99. Bevares, så løber der en smule porto på – men det er dælme stadig et godt køb. Man blir jo helt fristet til at købe et par stykker i reserve!
Jeg har forlænget og rundet mønstret en smule bag på – og så egentlig bare tilføjet en flæse. Ingen hokus pokus her! Og ingen lynlåse el. andre drillerier.
Stoffet er mørkeblå let crepe georgette fra Stof og Stil.
My ‘Frilled to meet you blouse’ is here. A blouse inspired by the Marthe I made for Wilma and presented a few days ago. I know that Republique du Chiffon offers the Marthe pattern for women but I wanted to do my own version of this. Of course based on the Simplicity 1366 which I seem to use for almost every make these days. Right now this little wonder is on sale right here.
I basically just lengthened and rounded the back a bit and added the ‘skirt’ – that’s it. Yet another easy make.
I tried to keep my December sewing to a minimum this year, which was really very nice. Christmas clothes weren’t originally on my list, but then I saw the adorable plaid Art Museum vest Elizabeth (of the lovely blog Lizzieville) made for her little boy. She mentioned in the post that her daughter asked for […]read more
Last time we left off I had just customised my shoe lasts with some modelling clay and masking tape. This post is going to be all about making a pattern for the customised foot last. If you have average feet you’re probably not going to need to do this…read more
|The walking foot has become one of my favorite tools!|
The definition: ‘a small part or quantity intended to show what the whole is like.’
When we were in Paris visiting an atelier/studio that makes flowers and feathers (& more) for couture houses, we saw different samples made to test the design and techniques and to show the client for final approval.
|Sample of a fabric flower being developed for Chanel|
|Black leather with leather flowers being developed for handbags for Dior.|
|Pleated leather samples showing the paper pattern used to make the pleating and the finished leather samples.
|The fabric is a wool men’s suiting which Gwen painted and stitched before construction.
The pattern was inspired by Carol Lee Shanks.
Den dygtige designer/skrædder Nanna, som står bag firmaet og bloggen How to do Fashion, tilbød mig for nogen tid tilbage at afprøve hendes seneste snitmønster No. 4 London – en swing jakke/frakke i 3 versioner.
Jeg har valgt at teste version nr. 2, som er en hoftelang, kraveløs udgave med stiklommer i sidesømmen. Hvis man ønsker, kan jakken lukkes med et bindbånd i taljen, men det har jeg valgt at udelade.
Min coatigan er syet af en tyndere uldfilt (uld/polyester) vare fra Stofdepotet. Nød lærer kvinde med for lidt stof at finde alternative løsninger, så ærmerne at syet af sort uldjersey også fra Stofdepotet. De 2 forskellige stoffer fungerer fint sammen.
Mønstret er trykt på kraftigt papir og leveres i det fineste omslag. Selve syvejledningen kan printes fra Nannas hjemmeside.
Det er en meget udførlig syvejledning, der gør konstruktionen af jakken hurtig og overskuelig.
Denne er en str. M efter Nannas målskema. Den er rummelig, men har samtidig en perfekt pasform over skuldre og bryst. Perfekt, Nanna!!!
Coatiganen her var en julegave til min søde svigermor.
This swing coat is the latest vintage inspired pattern from the talented tailor/pattern designer Nanna, who runs the company and blog ‘How to do Fashion’.
The coat pattern comes in three versions. A short, a hip length and a long version.
Mine is the easiest of the three – the hip length no collar version. This less dramatic look appeals to me.
The coatigan is made of light weight leopard printed wool felt and black wool jersey.
This is a size M according to Nanna’s size chart. It is pretty roomy but still has a great fit across the shoulders and chest area. Really great. A very very well designed pattern that comes with great instructions (downloadable from Nanna’s blog) which makes the construcion a breeze.
This was a Christmas gift for my sweet mother in law.