Pattern Review: Cashmerette Dartmouth Top

March 27, 2017   /   byJessica  / Categories :  Feeds

Howdy CSC! I’m here to talk about the newest pattern in Cashmerette’s line up, the Dartmouth Top!

When I got the email announcing Jenny’s newest pattern I immediately bought it as this style of top is so wonderful to wear, but hard to buy when you have a busty figure.* I’ve bought many commercially made fixed wrap tops in my life, but they always gap under the strain of a full bosom. Not the Dartmouth Top!

As with all of Cashmerette’s patterns the size range is pretty great for the curvy sewing crowd. The Dartmouth Top goes from a size 12 C/D cup (40/32/42) to a size 28 G/H cup (58/48/58). I made a size 14G/H at the bust and graded out to a size 18 at the hip based on my measurements (42/36/47). Besides grading between sizes the only other adjustment I made was to use the size 16 sleeve as my biceps are generally a size larger than my shoulders in most patterns. Blending sizes is one of the easiest ways you can customize your sewing and make clothing that fits so much better than ready to wear!

Overall I’m pretty happy with the fit I achieved on this first crack at the pattern. This knit is maybe a tad heavier than I should have used and made the front hem feel a bit bulky. In future versions I might trim one layer of the front hem so the machine only has to deal with 3 layers of knit instead of 4. My main complaint is the back hem rides up a tad while the front hem seems a little too roomy in the hip. I’m also never certain if I should tuck the wrap under my breasts or let it sit across. Ultimately I tucked it underneath, but my husband wasn’t so sure I was right. Either way that wrap did not budge all day and I never flashed anyone, so perhaps it is personal preference.

I was also able to cut the entire pattern out of a 46 inch length of fabric! It look some creative shifting of the pattern pieces and piecing together the neckband from the scraps, but I was thrilled to make it work when I realized my 1.5 yard cut of fabric has shrunk in the dryer!

I’m a little torn on the length of the Dartmouth Top. I am 5’6″, the height Cashmerette pattern’s are drafted to, but untucked the top feels really long. Probably because I wear a lot of skirts and it hits at an odd spot with a skirt. However the long length was perfect for wearing tucked in. If you have a booty, then you know my struggle to have tops stay tucked in all day. Usually they creep right up until I have a nice pool of extra fabric at the waist, but this shirt stayed put all day, even while moving around!

Like all of Cashmerette’s patterns the instructions were very easy to follow and the top came together very easily. If you’ve made her Concord or Appleton patterns you can tackle this too.  In fact I pulled out my copy of the Appleton pattern to compare and while they are both wrap patterns, I found the Dartmouth Top to provide much better coverage of my chest. You can tell they came from the same or similar block, but there are enough differences for me to recommend owning them both!

Size Range (1-5) – 5, love the cup sizes!
Instructions (1-5) – 5, easy and clear
Construction Process (1-5) – 4, love the concept, but wish there was less bulk at the front hem
Final Fit (1-5), – 4, solid out of the envelope, but will tweak a bit in future versions
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation – 4.5, another wonderful pattern from Cashmerette and worth the purchase if you too love a fixed wrap top!

I already have a dress muslin in progress and my mind has been spinning with fun ways to play with the Dartmouth pattern!

*I bought the pattern on my own, but Cashmerette ultimately gave me a refund in exchange for my review. Really nice of her because I thought it was worth the purchase.

This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Curvy Sewing Collective

You may like


How to Make Your Own Face Oil

I’m excited to kick off a series on essential oils with this super simple and useful recipe today!…

read more

Lanes and Lapses

It’s been a while since we posted, probably our biggest lapse so far!  But we’ve been so super busy we haven’t had time to blog.  Never fear, we’ve been sewing and skirting and so on… Another lapse you may or may not have noticed was the amount of sewing that has been happening for Allegra. […]

The post Lanes and Lapses appeared first on Skirt Fixation.

read more

EBONY TEES AND SEAMLY CARDI IN MERINO JERSEY

This was my second year as a counselor at Camp Workroom Social and I was determined to be smarter in the wardrobe department than I was last year. I wanted clothing that was practical, stylish, comfy and interchangable. I already knew that I was bringing one pair of shoes (some back lace up boots which were much better than the heeled ones I wore last year) so everything needed to go with those and jeans. My color palette would be black (no surprise there), gray, white, blue, and camel. These really are the colors I wear all year long anyways. I am such a sucker for neutrals. This gave me the perfect excuse to sew up a few new things. After thinking about the criteria above, I settled on the Ebony tee in the cropped length and the Seamly Wrapped Cardigan which I had sewn up last year and loved. As for fabric choice, that was easy. I loved working with the merino wool jersey last year from The Fabric Store. They carry the perfect colors for my taste, plus the merino jersey feels so luxurious while still being washable. The perfect fall fabric in my book. I ended up […]

read more

A/W ’17 O2

Sewing like a demon for the last few weeks has produced another outfit for my intended A/W ’17 O collection. This one focuses on navy and mustard but, of course, not limited to these two colours. Reversible jacket can be … Continue reading

read more