McCalls 7542 – The Sleeves

April 25, 2017   /   byCarolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)  / Categories :  Feeds
I'm working with McCalls 7542.  Since we all know that patterns don't fit us right out of the envelope, I needed to make several changes to the pattern to make elements of it work for me. For me the sleeve is where I needed to make the most changes, especially since its the sleeve that's the focus of this pattern and my garment.


Normally I share all pattern information in the post containing the finished garment and write a separate post about the technique later. This time though if I couldn't get the sleeves to work, there would be no outfit. So I did something I don't normally do or rarely do. I made a sample.

See I always alter my sleeves for my bodacious biceps. Unless I'm using a Cashmerette Pattern, I need to make this pattern alteration EVERY.SINGLE.TIME. I've developed various techniques to deal with this depending on the type of sleeve I'm using. Since this is a short sleeve with the ruffle added to the bottom of it, I made a pattern sandwich using my TNT short sleeve, the McCalls sleeve pattern and tracing paper to make a new sleeve.

After I had a sleeve that worked for my biceps, my next concern was making sure the hole in the pattern would fit the hemline of my new sleeve. I measured the cutting line and it was too small. Then I measured the stitching line and it was too small. So I added 1/4" all the way around the stitching line seam and used that for my new cutting line.



I made a sample from a cotton shirting that I had on hand using the sleeve from View B.


...and it worked! I can't believe that it worked...or that I took the pictures with the timer on my iPad! *LOL*



Yeah that's how I look when I'm working in the sewing cave! And yes, I took the time to serge finish the upper and lower sleeve parts. Hey I might want to put it into a shirt or a tunic some day!

Anyway that's how I made my sleeve sample work using McCalls 7542 for the next garment up on the blog!

...as always more later!



This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

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I didn’t keep to my pledge of sewing something from a (new) Burda magazine each month. There were two skirts I forgot to blog about, but even if I count these, there are no 6 or 7 garments from Burda magazines sewn by me this year . The August issue could change the numbers. It’s a great issue with quite a few patterns I’d like to make. After seeing previews and especially after seeing some pictures shared by a friend with a subscription, I stalked the newsagent for this issue. It started with a little disappointment that the jacket I like so much is in the petite size range. Perhaps I will draft the details in my jacket pattern at some point, but not now. I have a nice event to go to next week and thought it might be nice to sew a new dress for the occasion.

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Not a very straightforward dress to sew. After tracing the pattern pieces the first thing I did was trying to “assemble” the paper pieces, based on the instructions and common sewing sense. That is necessary with Burda, their instructions are not always clear. Something is lost in translation probably (I have the Dutch issue, the original is German).

IMG_5352 (002)

There were two things I changed to the pattern:

  • the length of the bodice (common alteration for me) which was less difficult than it may seem from the line drawing
  • the waist piece. That has a seam at the bottom that is showing easily. In the magazine picture the serged seam is peeking out. I moved the seam to the center back of the waist piece. Easy change and I think it looks better the upper ander under side of that piece both have a folded edge.
    IMG_5354 (002)

I think I got how this is intended to be sewn and am ready to cut it.

IMG_5353 (002)

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