McCalls 7542 – The Sleeves

April 25, 2017   /   byCarolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)  / Categories :  Feeds
I'm working with McCalls 7542.  Since we all know that patterns don't fit us right out of the envelope, I needed to make several changes to the pattern to make elements of it work for me. For me the sleeve is where I needed to make the most changes, especially since its the sleeve that's the focus of this pattern and my garment.

Normally I share all pattern information in the post containing the finished garment and write a separate post about the technique later. This time though if I couldn't get the sleeves to work, there would be no outfit. So I did something I don't normally do or rarely do. I made a sample.

See I always alter my sleeves for my bodacious biceps. Unless I'm using a Cashmerette Pattern, I need to make this pattern alteration EVERY.SINGLE.TIME. I've developed various techniques to deal with this depending on the type of sleeve I'm using. Since this is a short sleeve with the ruffle added to the bottom of it, I made a pattern sandwich using my TNT short sleeve, the McCalls sleeve pattern and tracing paper to make a new sleeve.

After I had a sleeve that worked for my biceps, my next concern was making sure the hole in the pattern would fit the hemline of my new sleeve. I measured the cutting line and it was too small. Then I measured the stitching line and it was too small. So I added 1/4" all the way around the stitching line seam and used that for my new cutting line.

I made a sample from a cotton shirting that I had on hand using the sleeve from View B.

...and it worked! I can't believe that it worked...or that I took the pictures with the timer on my iPad! *LOL*

Yeah that's how I look when I'm working in the sewing cave! And yes, I took the time to serge finish the upper and lower sleeve parts. Hey I might want to put it into a shirt or a tunic some day!

Anyway that's how I made my sleeve sample work using McCalls 7542 for the next garment up on the blog! always more later!

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Starting to sew from August Burda

I didn’t keep to my pledge of sewing something from a (new) Burda magazine each month. There were two skirts I forgot to blog about, but even if I count these, there are no 6 or 7 garments from Burda magazines sewn by me this year . The August issue could change the numbers. It’s a great issue with quite a few patterns I’d like to make. After seeing previews and especially after seeing some pictures shared by a friend with a subscription, I stalked the newsagent for this issue. It started with a little disappointment that the jacket I like so much is in the petite size range. Perhaps I will draft the details in my jacket pattern at some point, but not now. I have a nice event to go to next week and thought it might be nice to sew a new dress for the occasion.

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IMG_5352 (002)

There were two things I changed to the pattern:

  • the length of the bodice (common alteration for me) which was less difficult than it may seem from the line drawing
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    IMG_5354 (002)

I think I got how this is intended to be sewn and am ready to cut it.

IMG_5353 (002)

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