Choosing a Size + Pattern Modifications + Full Bust Adjustment // Kalle SewalongMay 12, 2017 / byHeather Lou / Categories : Feeds
Hello all! Today’s post is all about choosing the right size and making any needed pattern modifications before you cut into your fabric. This pattern is relatively easy to fit due to the oversized silhouette, but I will be focusing on making a full bust adjustment later in this post since I don’t think you should skip it just because the pattern is loose fitting.
CHOOSING A SIZE
Many of us fall in between sizes but unless the difference is more than one size, I don’t necessarily think you need to grade for Kalle. The dress has around 7″ of ease through the hip so it gives you some wiggle room (I am a size 10 in the chest and a 14 in the hip and have been making a straight size 10 because I’ve been lazy). I would go with your chest measurement as a base, and then grade through the waist if necessary to give you more room in the hips. If you are large busted (more than a 2-3″ difference between high bust and full bust), I would suggest choosing a size based on your high bust rather than full bust measurement, and then doing a full bust adjustment as I outline below. This way you are choosing a size that will fit you in the neck and shoulders; an FBA will take care of the rest. Choosing a size based on your full bust when you are chesty will just mean it’s too big everywhere else (for more of an explanation on this, I highly suggest reading this post from the Curvy Sewing Collective – it very clearly explains how cup size effects pattern fit for larger busts).
GRADING BETWEEN SIZES
If you do need to grade between sizes, this pattern makes it pretty easy to do so. You’ll just need to draw a line connecting the two sizes as I’ve shown below.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN
Again, this pattern modification is really simple. Simply cut along the lengthen/shorten lines and adjust accordingly. Just remember that any length you add or remove will need to also be added or removed to the button placket piece (unless you’re making the tunic – the popover placket won’t need to be adjusted).
MODIFYING THE HEMLINE
The Kalle dress is designed to sit a few inches above the knee in the front and a few inches lower in the back, with a dramatic scoop along the side seam. If you find the dress too short or want to adjust the hemline along the sides, you just need to modify the hem. Here are a few options.
To make the side curve a little lower (just make sure the side seams are the same length):
To make the side curve less dramatic and more like a traditional shirt hem as well as adding length to the front (just make sure the side seams are the same length):
To square off curves for a straight hem:
If you have larger biceps, you may want to measure the arm opening (minus seam allowance) to decide if you’ll have enough room. The cuff is drafted to sit somewhat close to the arm with about 3″ of ease; if you’ll have less than that I would enlarge the cuff. To do that, drop the arm opening the desired amount on both sides equally. For example, if you need to add an inch of ease, drop the opening 1/2″ on both sides. Make sure you add the same amount to the front and back cuffs so they fit the new larger arm opening.
MAKING A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
As I mentioned earlier, if you have a three or more inch difference between your high and full bust, I would suggest making a full bust adjustment. Not doing an FBA will raise the front hem, making it shorter than intended, as well as possibly causing fit issues in other areas. To find out how much width you need to add, take your full and high bust measurements. Subtract the high bust from the full bust. A two-inch difference is what we draft for (a B cup). Anything over two inches is what you need to add to the pattern. Since we are only altering one half of the front pattern, you can cut that number in half since the total amount will be added across left and right sides equally.
As a guide, here is how much you should add to the bodice:
- 3 inch difference = 1/2″ width
- 4 inch difference = 1″ width
- 5 inch difference =1 1/2″ width
- 6 inch difference = 2″ width
- 7 inch difference = 2 1/2″ width
The method I show below comes from Fit For Real People; it’s different from most FBAs you’ve probably tried since this pattern has a kimono sleeve and no darts.
To start, find the bust point on the front pattern piece. You can do this by aligning the second notch from center front on the shirt with the center of your chest, and then aligning the shoulder of the pattern with your own (take into account the 5/8″ seam allowance). If you’re making the tunic, the center front line is cut on the fold and you should just align the edge with the center for your body. Mark the location of your bust point (your nipple, basically) on the pattern.
Now draw the following 5 lines on your pattern (shown on the cropped shirt but the same process applies for all variations):
- Straight line up from side seam to shoulder along arm opening.
- Line straight down from bust point to hem.
- Diagonal line from bust point to notch on arm opening.
- Diagonal line from bust point to side seam just below curve of arm opening.
- Horizontal line connecting line 2 and center front.
To start, cut the arm opening right off. We will reattach after we’ve done the FBA.
Cut up along line 2 and over to line 3. Leave a little hinge on the end. Then cut line 4 to bust point, leaving a little hinge. Rotate out along the top hinge until you’ve widened the pattern the amount necessary. You will have created a dart on the left side. The right part will now be shorter than the left – cut along line 5 and slide this portion down until the bottom aligns on both sides.
At this point you can tape the arm opening back to the bodice and fill in the newly created spaces with paper, truing the shoulder seam. This method creates a dart at the bust. However, if you would like to eliminate the dart entirely (in keeping with the spirit of the design), read on….
To make an FBA without a dart, the method is a little different. Ignore the last image and go back to the step where we had just rotated out the pieces. Now draw a guideline parallel to the center front, at the spot where your pattern pieces were rotated to create width (intersection of line 2 and 4). Now rotate the lower portion out towards the side seam, eliminating the dart.
Now rotate that bottom piece in the other direction until it is parallel with the guideline you just made. You have just removed the dart.
You can now tape the arm opening back to the bodice, truing the shoulder seam and filling in any areas with paper. You will have to redraw the bottom hem so it lines up with the piece you lowered earlier.
And that’s it! A little different from a typical FBA but the principles are the same – you are adding width and length to the front to create room for your bust without affecting the length of the side seams.
I am not going to cover cutting out the pattern since this isn’t something I think many of you need help with. This means we’ll be jumping straight into construction next week, with a focus on sewing all of the different button placket methods we’ve included with Kalle. Let me know if you have any other fitting questions in the meantime.
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