Circular Yoke Summer Shirt

May 12, 2017   /   byWhitney  / Categories :  Feeds

Right about now, many of us are tucking our hand knits into beds of cedar shavings for the summer, but don’t toss the knitting needles in there, too! Warm weather never stopped us from casting on, and our Circular Yoke Summer Shirt is one great reason why!

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

In our gorgeous new Cattail Silk, the Circular Yoke Summer Shirt is light and airy, fresh and ventilating, just what a summer knit should be. Knit in the round from the bottom up, its beauty come from simple details, like pretty yoke decreases, gentle waist shaping, and no-fuss finishing.

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

Nearly the same as our original Silken Straw Summer Sweater, this version has simpler finishing and lots more sizes. The Cattail Silk also has a lighter drape and, with less shine than the Silken Straw, a more versatile wear-anywhere look.

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

And best news for last, you only need two or three skeins of Cattail Silk! We used cool and collected Lavender Daybreak, but our palette of eighteen colors is full of lots of pretty choices. And with a whole summer of knitting ahead, no need to choose just one!

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

Materials

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

  • 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk. We used Lavender Daybreak.
  • US 3, 24-inch circular needles
  • For Shirt sizes 32 and 34 3/4 only: US 3, 16-inch circular needles for last part of Yoke
  • Two stitch markers

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows  = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked

Sizes

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

 

32 (34 3/4, 36 1/2, 38 3/4, 40 1/2, 42 3/4, 44 1/2, 46 1/4)

To fit actual chest circumference of 29-30 (31-32, 33-34, 35-36, 37-38, 39-40, 41-42, 43-44) inches, with approximately 2-3 3/4 inches of positive ease

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (34 3/4, 36 1/2, 38 3/4, 40 1/2, 42 3/4, 44 1/2, 46 1/4) inches
  • Finished Waist Circumference: 30 1/4, 33 1/4, 34 3/4, 37 1/4, 38 3/4, 41 1/4, 42 3/4, 44 1/2) inches
  • Finished Hip Circumference: 33 3/4 (36 1/2, 38 1/4, 40 1/2, 42 1/4, 44 1/2, 46 1/4, 48) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 18 inches

SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 38 3/4 with 3 inches of ease.

Pattern

Body

Cast on 236 (256, 268, 284, 296, 312, 324, 336) stitches.

Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit every round until piece measures 5 1/2 inches from cast-on edge (unroll to measure).

Next round: K118 (128, 134, 142, 148, 156, 162, 168), place marker, knit to end of round.

*Decrease Round 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, ssk, k1. [1 stitch decreased]

Decrease Round 2: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before first marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, knit to end of round. [3 stitches decreased]

Knit 8 rounds (or for nearly one inch).

Repeat from * five more times. [212 (232, 244, 260, 272, 288, 300, 312) stitches]

Knit 18 rounds (or for two inches).

**Increase Round 1: Knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [1 stitch increased]

Increase Round 2: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to 1 stitch before first marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to end of round. [3 stitches increased]

Knit 9 rounds (or for one inch).

Repeat from ** two more times. [224 (244, 256, 272, 284, 300, 312, 324) stitches]

Knit every round until Body measures 18 inches from cast-on edge (rolled), ending last round 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before end-of-round marker.

Create Underarms

Bind off 12 (14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22, 24) stitches (removing marker), knit to 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, bind off 12 (14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22, 24) stitches (removing marker), knit to first bind off. [200 (216, 224, 236, 248, 260, 268, 276) stitches]

Cast on for Sleeve

Turn work so the wrong side is facing you and use a cable cast on to cast on 65 (67, 68, 72, 76, 80, 81, 82) stitches; turn so the right side of the work is facing you, and making sure the cast on isn’t twisted, knit the next 100 (108, 112, 118, 124, 130, 134, 138) stitches (to the next set of bound-off stitches); turn so the wrong side of the work is facing you and use a cable cast on to cast on 65 (67, 68, 72, 76, 80, 81, 82) stitches; turn so the right side is facing you, and again making sure the cast on isn’t twisted, knit the next 50 (54, 56, 59, 62, 65, 67, 69) stitches, place marker for new beginning of round. [330 (350, 360, 380, 400, 420, 430, 440) stitches]

The beginning of the round is now located at center back.

Yoke

Knit every round until the Sleeve measures 1 1/2 (1 3/4, 2, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 3/4, 3, 3 1/4) inches from the cable-cast-on edge.

Decrease Round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [264 (280, 288, 304, 320, 336, 344, 352) stitches]

Knit 16 rounds (or for 1 3/4 inch).

Decrease Round: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [198 (210, 216, 228, 240, 252, 258, 264) stitches]

Knit 9 rounds (or for one inch).

Shape Neckline

Round 1: K89 (95, 98, 104, 110, 116, 119, 122), bind off 20 stitches, knit to next marker, remove marker, knit to beginning of bind off. [178 (190, 196, 208, 220, 232, 238, 244 stitches]

NOTE: From now on you will be working back and forth in rows, with each row ending at the neckline edge. Also, for this section feel free to try a Sloped Bind Off, if you’d like!

Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 4 stitches, purl to end of row. [174 (186, 192, 204, 216, 228, 234, 240) stitches]

Row 2 (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [170 (182, 188, 200, 212, 224, 230, 236) stitches]

Row 3: Bind off 3 stitches, purl to end of row. [167 (179, 185, 197, 209, 221, 227, 233) stitches]

Row 4: Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. [164 (176, 182, 194, 206, 218, 224, 230) stitches]

Row 5: P1, p2tog, purl to the last 3 stitches, p2tog through the back loop (p2togtbl), p1. [162 (174, 180, 192, 204, 216, 222, 228) stitches]

Row 6: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [160 (172, 178, 190, 202, 214, 220, 226) stitches]

Row 7: *P1, p2tog, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, p2togtbl, p1. [107 (115, 119, 127, 135, 143, 147, 151) stitches]

Row 8: Repeat Row 6. [105 (113, 117, 125, 133, 141, 145, 149) stitches]

Row 9: Purl.

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 two more times. [101 (109, 113, 121, 129, 137, 141, 145) stitches]

Bind off loosely in knit stitch.

Finish

Bottom, Armhole, + Neckline Edges

Pick up and bind off around the Bottom, Armhole, and Neckline edges. Here’s how…

Picking up 1 stitch for each cast-on or bound-off stitch, and along the neckline, for each edge stitch, pick up two stitches, *pass the first stitch over, pick up one stitch, repeat from * around entire edge, cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.

Weave In + Block

Weave in the ends and block your finished piece by first soaking it in room temperature water and a mild detergent. Rinse and squeeze out the excess water first with your hands, then by rolling the Shirt in a dry towel. Finally, lay your Shirt nice and flat on another dry towel and allow it to air dry. All done!

Circular Yoke Summer Shirt | Purl Soho

This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Purl Soho

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