liesl + co. classic shirt sew alongMay 8, 2017 / byRachel Le Grand / Categories : Feeds
From Liesl: Are you ready for the Classic Shirt sew along? We’re so delighted you’re here! I hope you’ll find this pattern rewarding to sew. It’s so satisfying to have a really professional-looking shirt when you’re done, and I hope you’ll learn some new techniques along the way. I spent a lot of time researching various construction methods when I was writing this pattern, so it’s written in a way that I hope will give you great results with a minimum of fuss. Rachel will be guiding us through the week, and I will jump in every now and then with special hints or tips in italics. But now, I’ll turn it over to Rachel.
We’ll be working through the pattern over the next five days. Here’s our schedule:
- Day 1: Make the Wearer’s Right Set-in Placket (View A), Make the Continuous Cut-on Placket (View A and B), Close the Darts.
- Day 2: Make and Attach the Pockets and Flaps (View A and B).
- Day 3: Assemble the Back and Yoke, Attach the Shirt Fronts, Make and Attach the Collar Band.
- Day 4: Prepare the Collar, Attach the Collar to the Collar Band, Make the Sleeve Placket.
- Day 5: Sew the Sleeves, Sew the Cuffs, Hem and Finish the Shirt.
And, remember. If you want to grab a badge to share on your blog, you can get one from the post announcing the sew along.
Over the rest of this week, we will be updating this post by adding the steps for additional days as they arrive. So be sure to check back here if you are sewing with us day-by-day instead of looking for a new post each day.
And with that, let’s kick off the sewing! Here we go with….
Make the Wearer’s Right Set-in Placket (View A)
From Liesl: Keep in mind that this set of steps is for the set-in placket, which we used on View A. You can certainly use on on View B as well, and I’ve even used it as the wearer’s left placket when I wanted to add a contrast fabric to the inside of the shirt. (I just reversed the application and sewed it to the right side of the fabric in Step 3, below, so it ended up on the inside of the shirt when it was finished.) I love the look of a set-in placket because it adds another detail to the shirt that looks fancy but is really easy to sew.
1. For the wearer’s right front placket, trim 1 1/4” from the front edge of the wearer’s right shirt front, using the marked line on the pattern piece as a guide. (Trim only the wearer’s right shirt front; leave the wearer’s left shirt front edge intact for the continuous cut-on placket.)
2. Sew a row of basting stitches 1/2” from one long edge of the cut placket piece. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse or baste a 1” by 29” strip of interfacing to the center of the wrong side of the placket, aligning the edge of the interfacing with the basting stitches. Then fold and press the seam allowances of the placket toward the interfacing, using the basting stitches as a folding guide.
3. Pin the non-folded long edge of the placket to the wearer’s right shirt front, with the right side of the placket against the wrong side of the shirt front. (Note that the placket will be longer than the shirt front.) Stitch the placket to the shirt with a 1/2” seam, backstitching or lockstitching at both ends. Trim the stitched seam allowances to 1/4”.
4. Press the placket and seam allowances away from the shirt front and trim one of the two seam allowances to 1/4” to reduce bulk. Then fold the placket along the seamline to the right side of the shirt, rolling the seamline just slightly to the wrong side so it won’t show on the finished shirt. Edgestitch both the front folded edge and the innermost folded edge of the placket to finish it. If desired, add a row of topstitching 1/4” from each row of edgestitching. Trim off the extra length of the placket so it is flush with the neckline and the hem edges.
Make the Continuous Cut-on Placket (Views A and B)
From Liesl: A continuous, or cut-on, placket gives a shirt a smooth, clean finish without a lot of fuss. I think it’s especially appropriate for really dressy fabrics and shirts that you want to look refined without a lot of extra details. It’s also a great way to finish the underplacket of the shirt for View B so you don’t have extra bulk at the center front.
1. To form the placket on the wearer’s left side for View A, and on both shirt-front pieces for View B, sew a row of basting stitches 1/2” from the front edge of the wearer’s left shirt front. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse or baste a 1” by 29” strip of interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the edge of the interfacing with the basting stitches. Fold and press the seam allowances to the wrong side of the fabric, using the basting stitch as a folding guide.
Fold and press a second time, using the opposite edge of the interfacing as a 1” folding guide, to form the placket on the wrong side of the fabric. Edgestitch only the innermost fold to finish the placket. For View B only, repeat in the same manner to form the placket on the wearer’s right shirt-front piece.
Close the Darts
1. To close the darts, fold one shirt along the dart’s center, with the fabric’s right sides together and the marked dart legs aligned. Pin and stitch along the aligned dart markings, backstitching at the widest part of the dart but not at its tip. Instead, at the dart’s point, leave thread tails several inches long and knot the thread tails together a couple of times to secure the thread. This will reduce bulk at the tip of the dart and prevent the dart from puckering.
Press the dart flat to set the stitches, then press the fold of the dart toward the shirt hem. Repeat with the dart on the second shirt-front piece.
From Liesl: If you have a tailor’s ham you can place it under the dart to help give the tip of the dart a smooth finish.
We’ll see you back here tomorrow for Day 2 of the sew-along. Happy stitching!
This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Oliver + S
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