They’re Here, They’re Here! PREORDER the New Madalynne X Simplicity Patterns!

May 31, 2017   /   byMaddie Flanigan  / Categories :  Feeds

I’ve been giving you snippets and sneak peeks at my new patterns with Simplicity and today, I can finally talk about it. It’s Facebook official. My first collaboration was a dream come true. I remember flipping through the catalogs at Joann’s and Walmart. Never in a million years did I think I would have a pattern… patterns!

Before I get to the deets on the three – yes three! – new patterns, I want to say thank you. I left a secure, 7-year stint at an awesome corporate job to pursue my lingerie dreams. As I near the one year mark, I am looking back at the past 12 months with amazement. The stars are aligning exactly as they should, but never as I thought they would. Things are falling into place and you have been cheering me all along, from when I announced I was leaving to when I attended my first trade show. Muchos gracias and muchos besos!

And gotta send much <3 to the Simplicity team. You guys rock!

bra pattern
Description: Strapless bra with lace panels at front. Has side and center front seams with plush channeling on inside that is encased with plastic boning to add support. Optional silicone backed elastic at the top and the bottom of the bra help to keep bra from falling down too. Hook and eye closure at center back. The panty is a simple thong with lace panels which are meant to match the bra.

Sizes: The bra is available in sizes 32A through 42DD and the panty is available in sizes XS-XL.

Design Comments: Summer is here y’all and if you’re like me, all you want to do is bust out the sleeveless tops, dresses and jumpsuits. What about those off the shoulder tops that literally everyone is wearing? Ladies, you’ll need a strapless bra for your ladies. Strapless bras get a band rap; in terms of annoying fashion problems, having your bra shimmy down to your hips is up there with untangling a necklace. Hate, hate, hate! To fight gravity, there are tricks to keep things in place, which have been designed into this pattern. First, the band is narrow-er. Not super wide, but not super skinny. I thought it was a happy medium between being supportive and flattering. Additionally, the seams all around the bra have channeling encased with plastic boning and the top and the bottom are finished with silicone backed elastic. I really like the addition of the channeling/boning – it elevates the bra from fitting like a bandeau to having structure and support. My other suggestions for not loathing strapless? If you’re in between sizes, go with the smaller. To compensate for losing the support of straps, the bra has to be slightly smaller than your normal lingerie. Basically, you want the bra to be as tight as possible without being uncomfortable or flattening you out like a pancake.

While I wouldn’t wear a thong to the beach, the top has so much potential to be a swimsuit. This summer, it’s my goal to make this top and pair it with the Noelle bottom using a Sport Lycra from Spoonflower. In the kits for this pattern – to be released in a few weeks, read below – I’ll be including swimsuit hooks + straps.

bra pattern

8436: Partial Band Bra + Cheeky Undie


Description: Underwire partial band bra with plunge neckline. Cups provides moderate coverage, and back features adjustable shoulder straps and hook and eye. The matching panty is a cheeky low rise undie (the back almost fits like a thong; similar style is this Urban Outfitters undie).

Sizes: The bra is available in sizes 32A through 42DD and the panty is available in sizes XS-XL.

Design Comments: This bra is so much fun to make! The neckline is super flattering too. Newbie lingerie sewists often shy away from underwire bras because they seem intimidating. This is as simple an underwire gets y’all. Just like the strapless, the design has so many possibilities too. The instructions call for a scallop lace, but take a peek at my last workshop. All the students made this bra with a non scallop lace from Spoonflower. Note to self – need to get more glitter mesh STAT.

The panty is cheeky cut – similar to a bikini with more butt exposure. Perfect to wear with jeans or pants, because you won’t get a strong panty line and you have a little more coverage.

bodysuit pattern

8437: Henley Bodysuit


Description: Henley bodysuit with a center front button placket and snap closure at the crotch. Has the option to be long sleeved or sleeveless, or bikini or thong.

Sizes: XS-XL

Design Comments: Bodysuits – can’t stop, won’t stop. Like skinny jeans, bodysuits have unexpectedly become a timeless staple in my wardrobe. I wear them with skirts, shorts, pants, jeans, and even as a layering piece underneath my entire outfit. If you scope out My Sewing Projects page, you’ll see I’ve made one too many. I’m really excited to make this with rib knit and even Lycra for a swimsuit!

What To Purchase? Read the Pre-Sale Deets


Hop on over to the shop to preorder the Madalynne X Simplicity 8435, 8436 and 8437 patterns as well as the 8228 and 8229. Presale will be from 5/31 to 6/7, and new patterns will go on sale to the general public on 6/16.

Preorders will ship between 6/19-6/25.

I will be launching kits to go along with the new patterns as well as relaunching my kits for the 8228, 8229 and Noelle. If you’re hesitant to buy the pattern now and the kit later because you’ll have to pay twice the shipping, use code bundle at checkout to get free shipping when you purchase the kit.

Also, enjoy 10% off your order if you purchase more than 3 patterns with the code lingeriebundle

Lingerie Kits and Tutorials


They’re coming and I’m super excited to release the next batch. New color combinations, laces and trimmings. I’m also planning on releasing video tutorials for the 8435 (strapless) and 8436(partial band). I’m not sure if I’ll be doing a video tutorial on the bodysuit yet. It’s a pretty quick and easy sew. Maybe just a video tutorial on how to sew the center front button placket and snap crotch? Tell me your thoughts below.

Head on over to my tutorial page and sign up for my emails to get first notification when I release the kits and tutorials.

Workshops 


It’s going to be an exciting summer! Not only am I hosting a workshop for the 8437 (bodysuit) and 8435 (strapless), I’m also partnering with Spoonflower and C.Banning to create custom fabrics that the students will use. There are only a few spots left at each, sign up here and here.

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Ida Clutch Bag

I have something a bit different to show you today, which is this little clutch bag that I made for my sister, who absolutely loves it.  I first spotted it on Instagram when Kirsten from Fifty Two Fancies made it, and instantly though that my sister would like it.

 

The pattern is called the Ida Clutch Bag, and is a free pattern from Kylie And The Machine.
One of the bags on the introduction page is leather, as is Kirsten’s, and I really loved them, so decided to give it a go myself.  

Much googling finally brought me to Leather4Craft on ebay, where I bought some veg-tan goat skin leather for £22.00.  It came as a rectangle of leather, which I stupidly forgot to measure, and is lovely and soft.  There was more than enough for this little bag.
More googling was done on cutting and sewing leather.  I used my rotary cutter to cut it out, and pattern weights to hold the pattern piece down.  I say pattern weights, it was really my phone and some masking tape…

You can maybe, sort of, judge the size of the leather from this photo.  There was enough leather to the top to cut out another pattern piece, and there was a bit left over that is probably about half as wide as the bit that my rotary cutter is sitting on.
Sewing the leather turned out to be a lot easier than I thought, but leather needles are a must.  I practised a dart on some scrap leather first, and my machine handled it beautifully.  Sewing leather is a bit of a one shot deal, you don’t want to be unpicking, and my walking foot was great.

I marked the point of the dart with a pin, which left a little hole in the leather, then clipped the dart ends within the seam allowance.
 
I marked the dart legs with a pencil on the wrong side of the leather.
 
I obviously couldn’t use pins on the leather, as they would leave little holes, so I used a mini clothes pegs to hold everything together.  Quilting clips would be great, but I don’t have any.
 
 This is what the darts look like from the wrong side,
 
And this is the right side.
 
The instruction page on the interfacing mentions that the sample leather bag is interfaced (I think it’s in the comments), but I was a bit too scared to try that!  So I just interfaced the lining.  I used a medium weight interfacing for the whole bag lining (Piece B), and then a woven interfacing on top for Piece C.

I added an inside pocket, and made it as big as I could without interfering with the darts.  It’s big enough for a phone.

Next came inserting the zip, and the instructions for it are brilliant.  I didn’t take any photos of it, but here’s what it looked like when it was finished. 
The pin in the photo above is marking the tailor’s tack for the snap placement, which leads me on to attaching the snaps.  I wasn’t looking forward to this, because I was afraid of ruining the leather.  But some more googling showed me how to do it.  
Everything I read called for interfacing, but, as already mentioned, I didn’t want to interface the leather.  So I didn’t use any, and it’s grand.  Here’s what I did.
First of all, I practised on a leather scrap!  The snaps have two prongs on the back that are secured with a little washer.   
 

I stuck a pin through the lining and leather where the tailor’s tack was (the tack was just in the lining), to mark the snap position on the leather.  Then I used the washer as a template, and marked the position of the prongs with a pen (making sure it wouldn’t bleed through to the front!).

 

Admire that lovely top stitching!
 

 

Then I snipped into the leather using some embroidery scissors.

The prongs on the snap go through the holes from the front, then it is held in place with the washer.  I just put it through the leather, so the snap is not visible on the inside of the bag.

Here’s what it looks like from the right side.

I did the same with the other snap, and here’s what it looks like when it’s closed.

As suggested in the instructions, I sewed the edges of the bag with a zipper foot.  It was tricky to get over the closed end of the zip, and I ended up just turning the hand wheel.

I’m delighted with how this little bag turned out, and leather definitely isn’t as tricky to sew as I thought.

Now I sort of want to make a leather purse…  Have a great weekend,
Lynne
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New Look 6500 shift dress: a simple pattern that I couldn’t leave unmodified

How much adjustment do you do on a very simple pattern? Do you feel it’s worthwhile to make very small changes to get it just right or perhaps you sew up simple things as is and save your efforts for a special dress or coat.
This simple dress pattern is something that I choose as one of the suggestions for my Sew a Dress class at Hello Stitch in Berkeley. (scheduled again for Sun. July 30 – the first one was great fun. More details at the bottom of this post on all the upcoming classes). As it happens Craftsy asked me to write a longer post outlining all the steps to sew a simple dress, consequently I decided to sew up this pattern and get a lot of things done with one project. Plus I’ve been on a shift dress kick lately. They are such simple and pleasant things to wear. Since it was 107˚F in the SHADE here yesterday I would rather have worn a dress made of ice cubes but since that is not going to happen a shift dress it is.

batik shift dress

I have had this fabric in my stash for a good 5 or 6 years. It’s a cotton batik that I bought in Hawaii, quite a large amount (5 yards) and just never found a use for it. Slightly heavy as a lot of batiks are, so not really good for most dresses plus the vertical stripe had me stumped. I think I found the perfect style for it that uses the stripe best. Plus I can wear my stripes navy blue espadrille sandals – double win.
Here’s the pattern envelope, with a sneak peek of a subsequent version of this dress. Which everyone has gone wild for on my Instagram teases, embroidered denim must be the thing this summer. The envelope says D0569 but all the pattern pieces say New Look 6500 so I’m calling it that. I really like New Look patterns, they come up with some super cute dresses and tops, plus they include all sizes in one envelope and cost $ 3.99 all the time.

New Look Shift dress pattern

batik dr front view

Onward to my adjustments: I sewed this dress for the Craftsy post, not as a wearable but as a “photograph-able” item, i.e. something that would really show in the step-by-step tutorial but I had no intention of wearing it. It was actually quite a pleasure to just sew up a dress with no changes, I sewed the size 12 and went from there.
Here is the version I sewed for Craftsy, in a quilting cotton that I had in my stash, I think a remainder from a project I did for someone on Etsy ages ago. And I really loathe this color of green so don’t even tell me that you like this dress on me 🙂 Plus for the most part sewing/wearing garments with quilting cotton is a bit NO for me. With some exceptions they always look a bit off: too wrinkly, too juvenile, too unsophisticated to claim my interest.

green shift dress

green shift dress3

But I include the photo of me wearing this one to show the neckline fit. That neckline was choking me – I don’t like that high round neckline and when you move your head forward it’s so uncomfortable. Good shoe match thought, right?

Back to the blue and white batik version. Can you see the difference in the neckline? It is so much more comfortable for me in the second version. I wanted to figure out exactly how much to open the neck so I made a version of just the top half of the dress in swedish tracing paper – and every time I use that I remember that is has absolutely no give. While it seems like a good idea because you can sew it – putting it on is not so easy. I did put a zipper so I could actually try it on – which worked in the end but it was kind of shredded. However it was good enough to slice and dice a bit, figuring out how I wanted the final neckline to be shaped.

neckline comparison

I cut out the batik version based on my new neckline, and basted it together at the shoulder seams to see if I liked the neckline. It still seemed a bit too high for my preference and also I like the armholes to be more cut in at the shoulder in a sleeveless dress. So instead of cutting more off the edges of the dress I made a one piece facing for front and back, and then used tracing paper to mark a seam line. At the neck I took away a further 5/8″ (total seam allowance now 1.25″) and then on the armholes I think I sewed it at around 7/8″ which makes the armhole a bit bigger all around. You have to be careful that it doesn’t make the armhole too low but this dress had a very tight armhole so there was plenty of room.

batik dress facing new seam

On my next version of this dress (the embroidered chambray fabric)  I’ll show how I make the one piece facing plus this upcoming version is lined so it incorporates facing and lining together.

The original New Look pattern had separate neck and armhole facings which works ok, not my preference but not as horrible as some make it out to be. But there’s a better way. Another option for these simple summer dresses is bias binding but I wanted to show the traditional or basic type of dress sewing.

But we are not done yet! In fact this adjustment should have come up first in my writing but I only remembered to take this picture a few minutes and include it. The bust dart on this dress is both large and high. I measured it on the pattern piece and could see that it needed to be lower so I did that before I did anything else, just a straightforward shift downward about 3/4″. The bust dart is kind of larger than it would be had there been other darts (vertical waist darts)  or other shaping. Trying it on it made the dart a bit too pointy – not my favorite look. So I reduced the width of the dart.

dart adjustment on shift dress

On the tracing paper on the left you can see the faint outline of the original dart, too high. The second placement, lower but too big, and then the final version in the purple dotted line, just right. I sound like Goldilocks don’t I but if you’re going to do adjustments you might as well go all the way until you like the fit.

Batik dr side and back view

Back and side view, you can barely see the dart but that is the ideal, at least for me. Since the side seams were not even in length I split the difference at the top of the seam at the armhole and sliced off about 3/8″ off the side back at that point. Worked out fine.

batik dress front 2

So that’s chapter one on my summer shift dress extravaganza. I have some more complex things in line for my sewing table but not sure what order I will sew them.

Here’s the link to that Craftsy post: The Complete Beginners Guide to Sewing a Dress.

Update on classes at Hello Stitch Studio on Berkeley. The Fit Lab was great – we are going to schedule this class again soon. In July we are repeating Saturday classes for sewing Skirts, Tunic Tops, and a new on starting on Wed 7/26 in the evening is a Button-front shirt class. All these classes are two sessions scheduled a week apart so not a long term time commitment and you will get a project done (or nearly) and learn some new and useful techniques. The Dress class is an all-day one on Sun. 7/30. FYI: I’ve found parking to be surprisingly easy around the studio and it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Berkeley Bart station so really convenient to get to.

This was yesterday afternoon. Survival mode with an iced coffee. thankfully lots cooler today (ha ha only mid 90’s˚F).

thermometer


Happy weekend sewing,
Beth

today’s garden photo, this white daisy just looks so calm and cool, even in this heat!

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Jan 2016 Accuquilt Sale