How to print PDF Copyshop files cheaplyJune 15, 2017 / byJenny Rushmore / Categories : Feeds
Cashmerette Patterns come in three formats, and today I’m going to be sharing the secret of inexpensive ways to use the Copyshop files! No more $18 bills from Staples, thankyouverymuch.
There are pros and cons to each of the Cashmerette Patterns format, so you can choose yours depending on what you care the most about:
- Printed pattern: The big pro is there’s no additional work required to start working on your project – it’s all there! You also get a lovely printed envelope and instruction booklet to refer to. The cons are that you have to wait for it to be sent to you (or buy it from a store), and you’ll have to pay postage if you have it sent (US mail costs $2 – 3 (depending on the pattern weight), and international is $6 – 7).
- PDF Print At Home: The main pro is that you can get your pattern immediately, print it off on your home printer, and get going straight away – and, no postage costs. You can also reprint in the future if you want a new size, don’t want to trace, or lose your pieces. The con is that you have to construct it, which involves trimming the pages and taping or gluing them together. Some people love this, some people hate it!
- PDF Copyshop: The pro to this is that you get beautiful big paper pattern pieces that you can print locally, so no postage fees or waiting for an international package, and no printing at home or taping. Cashmerette Patterns Copyshop files come in US size (36 x 48″) and A0 size which is used in the rest of the world. The con is that sometimes this can be expensive – but that’s what we’re solving int his blog post today! If you don’t find a good local option for you here, I recommend googling “engineering print printing”, “plan printing”, “blueprint printing” or “reprographics printing”.
Note, all Cashmerette Pattern PDF files are split by cup size, so you only need to print the relevant cup size for you.
How to print PDF Copyshop files cheaply
Most people assume that you can only have Copyshop files printed at large chains like Staples and Fedex (in the US) – but they’re super expensive, starting at around $7.50 per sheet (and most of our PDF patterns are at least 2 sheets). Once you add that to the cost of the PDF pattern, you may be better off just buying a printed pattern. However, there are in fact some much cheaper options available. If you know of any additional national companies, let me know and I’ll update the post!
USA copyshop file printing
- This online PDF plotting business has great prices and pretty quick shipping (2 – 5 business days, with same-day printing if you order before 2pm). A standard 36 x 48″ Copyshop pattern sheet is only $1.20! The catch is, there is a minimum order cost of $7.49 (so you need to print 7 pages), and shipping is a flat $6.99. However, that still nets out at $2.06 a page vs. over $7 for Staples.
- To order, indicate the number of originals (that’s the number of sheets you’re printing), the number of sets (the number of copies you want) and then you’ll be asked about the dimensions of the files – for all Cashmerette Patterns, you should tick “My file(s) are sized to the dimensions selected” (it may be different for other companies).
- I have used this company personally and recommend them (please note, I haven’t used the others, I have just had recommendations from other people).
- This is another online PDF plotting company, and they offer 36 x 48″ Copyshop pattern sheets at $1.32. They don’t have a minimum number of pages, but there is a “set up fee” of $7. Shipping is variable, but at $16 to Boston, it’s pretty steep.
UK copyshop file printing
- “Plan” printing (black and white) on a A0 page is 75p a page, and postage is £3. I wasn’t able to see if there are any printer set-up fees (let me know if you have more info!)
- “Plan” printing on an A0 page is 75p a page, minimum order is £5, and postage is £5 (next day).
- Print your Pattern
- A site just for printing sewing patterns! £6.50 per pattern, in A0 size (up to 2 pages, you can also email them about printing more pages), plus free shipping. Delivered folded to A4 size.
Denmark copyshop file printing
- A0 printed for 45 kr + tax + shipping if you’re part of the Sysiden sewing club (the printing is via Vester Kopi).
Germany copyshop file printing
- A0 page printing starts at Euro 3.50, and shipping costs are variable. They also offer the option to send in an A4 sewing pattern which they will tile for you and print on an A0 page! Very innovative and great for sewing patterns that don’t come with a copyshop file.
- Online printing service, I believe A0 page printing starts at Euro 1.29, plus shipping.
Netherlands copyshop file printing
- €1.76 for an A0 sheet – ask for the black & white plan printing, large format.
Norway copyshop file printing
- (I couldn’t translate this page, but if any Norwegian wants to give me the info, I’ll update this!)
Australia copyshop file printing
- “Plan” printing (black and white) of A0 pages is AUS$4.10 a page, and can be ordered online and sent to you, or picked up in a store.
New Zealand copyshop file printing
- Warehouse Stationery
- “Plan” printing (black and white) of A0 pages is NZ$6.50 a page. You can order online, or get the printing done in a store.
South Africa copyshop file printing
- Nationwide chain of franchise run stores. Slight variation in prices depending on store location but A0 b&w is currently less than R30 – usually around R25.
So that’s how to print PDF copyshop files cheaply! I’d love to hear if you have any more options, and I hope you found this helpful.
Thanks a lot to everyone who contributed to this post in the Cashmerette Facebook Community Group!
*Note, all prices accurate at the time of publication (June 2017). Prices may vary in the future. Please note, in some cases I had to use Google Translate for non-English pages and information may be incorrect – please let me know if you spot anything and I will update it!
This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Cashmerette
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I added an inside pocket, and made it as big as I could without interfering with the darts. It’s big enough for a phone.
I stuck a pin through the lining and leather where the tailor’s tack was (the tack was just in the lining), to mark the snap position on the leather. Then I used the washer as a template, and marked the position of the prongs with a pen (making sure it wouldn’t bleed through to the front!).
|Admire that lovely top stitching!|
How much adjustment do you do on a very simple pattern? Do you feel it’s worthwhile to make very small changes to get it just right or perhaps you sew up simple things as is and save your efforts for a special dress or coat.
This simple dress pattern is something that I choose as one of the suggestions for my Sew a Dress class at Hello Stitch in Berkeley. (scheduled again for Sun. July 30 – the first one was great fun. More details at the bottom of this post on all the upcoming classes). As it happens Craftsy asked me to write a longer post outlining all the steps to sew a simple dress, consequently I decided to sew up this pattern and get a lot of things done with one project. Plus I’ve been on a shift dress kick lately. They are such simple and pleasant things to wear. Since it was 107˚F in the SHADE here yesterday I would rather have worn a dress made of ice cubes but since that is not going to happen a shift dress it is.
I have had this fabric in my stash for a good 5 or 6 years. It’s a cotton batik that I bought in Hawaii, quite a large amount (5 yards) and just never found a use for it. Slightly heavy as a lot of batiks are, so not really good for most dresses plus the vertical stripe had me stumped. I think I found the perfect style for it that uses the stripe best. Plus I can wear my stripes navy blue espadrille sandals – double win.
Here’s the pattern envelope, with a sneak peek of a subsequent version of this dress. Which everyone has gone wild for on my Instagram teases, embroidered denim must be the thing this summer. The envelope says D0569 but all the pattern pieces say New Look 6500 so I’m calling it that. I really like New Look patterns, they come up with some super cute dresses and tops, plus they include all sizes in one envelope and cost $ 3.99 all the time.
Onward to my adjustments: I sewed this dress for the Craftsy post, not as a wearable but as a “photograph-able” item, i.e. something that would really show in the step-by-step tutorial but I had no intention of wearing it. It was actually quite a pleasure to just sew up a dress with no changes, I sewed the size 12 and went from there.
Here is the version I sewed for Craftsy, in a quilting cotton that I had in my stash, I think a remainder from a project I did for someone on Etsy ages ago. And I really loathe this color of green so don’t even tell me that you like this dress on me 🙂 Plus for the most part sewing/wearing garments with quilting cotton is a bit NO for me. With some exceptions they always look a bit off: too wrinkly, too juvenile, too unsophisticated to claim my interest.
But I include the photo of me wearing this one to show the neckline fit. That neckline was choking me – I don’t like that high round neckline and when you move your head forward it’s so uncomfortable. Good shoe match thought, right?
Back to the blue and white batik version. Can you see the difference in the neckline? It is so much more comfortable for me in the second version. I wanted to figure out exactly how much to open the neck so I made a version of just the top half of the dress in swedish tracing paper – and every time I use that I remember that is has absolutely no give. While it seems like a good idea because you can sew it – putting it on is not so easy. I did put a zipper so I could actually try it on – which worked in the end but it was kind of shredded. However it was good enough to slice and dice a bit, figuring out how I wanted the final neckline to be shaped.
I cut out the batik version based on my new neckline, and basted it together at the shoulder seams to see if I liked the neckline. It still seemed a bit too high for my preference and also I like the armholes to be more cut in at the shoulder in a sleeveless dress. So instead of cutting more off the edges of the dress I made a one piece facing for front and back, and then used tracing paper to mark a seam line. At the neck I took away a further 5/8″ (total seam allowance now 1.25″) and then on the armholes I think I sewed it at around 7/8″ which makes the armhole a bit bigger all around. You have to be careful that it doesn’t make the armhole too low but this dress had a very tight armhole so there was plenty of room.
On my next version of this dress (the embroidered chambray fabric) I’ll show how I make the one piece facing plus this upcoming version is lined so it incorporates facing and lining together.
The original New Look pattern had separate neck and armhole facings which works ok, not my preference but not as horrible as some make it out to be. But there’s a better way. Another option for these simple summer dresses is bias binding but I wanted to show the traditional or basic type of dress sewing.
But we are not done yet! In fact this adjustment should have come up first in my writing but I only remembered to take this picture a few minutes and include it. The bust dart on this dress is both large and high. I measured it on the pattern piece and could see that it needed to be lower so I did that before I did anything else, just a straightforward shift downward about 3/4″. The bust dart is kind of larger than it would be had there been other darts (vertical waist darts) or other shaping. Trying it on it made the dart a bit too pointy – not my favorite look. So I reduced the width of the dart.
On the tracing paper on the left you can see the faint outline of the original dart, too high. The second placement, lower but too big, and then the final version in the purple dotted line, just right. I sound like Goldilocks don’t I but if you’re going to do adjustments you might as well go all the way until you like the fit.
Back and side view, you can barely see the dart but that is the ideal, at least for me. Since the side seams were not even in length I split the difference at the top of the seam at the armhole and sliced off about 3/8″ off the side back at that point. Worked out fine.
So that’s chapter one on my summer shift dress extravaganza. I have some more complex things in line for my sewing table but not sure what order I will sew them.
Here’s the link to that Craftsy post: The Complete Beginners Guide to Sewing a Dress.
Update on classes at Hello Stitch Studio on Berkeley. The Fit Lab was great – we are going to schedule this class again soon. In July we are repeating Saturday classes for sewing Skirts, Tunic Tops, and a new on starting on Wed 7/26 in the evening is a Button-front shirt class. All these classes are two sessions scheduled a week apart so not a long term time commitment and you will get a project done (or nearly) and learn some new and useful techniques. The Dress class is an all-day one on Sun. 7/30. FYI: I’ve found parking to be surprisingly easy around the studio and it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Berkeley Bart station so really convenient to get to.
This was yesterday afternoon. Survival mode with an iced coffee. thankfully lots cooler today (ha ha only mid 90’s˚F).
Happy weekend sewing,
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