lisette for butterick B6464 sleeveless top

June 19, 2017   /   byLiesl Gibson  / Categories :  Feeds

Last week I showed you two kimono jackets I sewed from my Lisette for Butterick pattern B6464, so today I thought I’d show you the sleeveless tops I’ve made from the same pattern. These are so much fun to make and wear, and they’ve quickly become a favorite summer item in my wardrobe!

I’ve made this top three times now, each time in different fabrics. The first one was from this leftover silk crepe in a color that isn’t especially flattering to me but which has a very nice drape and was surprisingly easy to work with. I lengthened the pattern by about 4-5″ and closed up the center-front gap, just to see what would happen. (I prefer it open, the way it’s written in the instructions. You’ll see that the other two tops I made include the gap.)

This is a really easy pattern, with only one buttonhole closure at the back. With the silk crepe, I spent a little time hand-stitching the neck facing to be sure it finished nicely. But with a stiffer fabric you really don’t need to fuss with it like I did for the silk. And aside from that, it goes together really quickly, which also makes it a fun summer sew.

I also tried making this pattern from some leftover Essex yarn-dye metallic from Robert Kaufman. (You’ll see the rest of the fabric in another post very soon. ) I can’t tell you how much I love this fabric. The metallic threads are so much fun! Because this fabric has a lot more body and a stiffer hand, this one is definitely more blouse-y, but not in a bad way. I get lots of compliments on this top, possibly because of the gold threads woven into the fabric, which gives it a subtle summer glow. And although I like the cropped un-tucked look of the original pattern, I lengthened it by about 4-5″ as well. I’m tall and long-waisted, so I can always use the extra length.

Since the first silk top has such nice drape, I decided to make another in navy silk satin, which is probably more flattering to my very light skin-tone than the pale beige-y green color of my first top. For this one I reversed the fabric so the slippery satin face is on the inside because I didn’t really want any shine (I knew the satin would feel so nice against my skin, too!), but now I sort of wished I left the satin as the outside because it just looks so rich and luxurious.

Like I said, this pattern has very quickly become part of my core summer essentials. Who would have thought? It’s loose-fitting enough through the torso and waist that it’s really comfortable, and I think the bare shoulders are summery without making me feel like I’m revealing a lot. I’ll be making more of these over time, no question.

A few tips about fit: if you’re between sizes, definitely size down for this pattern. If this pattern is too wide around the chest it gaps under the arms, which is never a good look. Also, if you’re any larger than a B-cup you’ll definitely want to do a full bust adjustment. No worries, it’s so easy! If you’re at all unsure about this process and want a full explanation, I have a detailed class on bust adjustments at Creativebug which will walk you through all the steps and explain the hows and whys behind this technique. Don’t be scared; it’s incredibly easy!

Once you’re familiar with the basics of the process, here are the specific steps for this pattern, which doesn’t have a dart. Instead, the dart has been transferred into gathers at the neckline, so the FBA (full bust adjustment) widens the front and adds more space for the bust. The extra room, which would ordinarily become a larger dart, gets moved into more gathers at the neckline, so it’s an easy change and no one know the difference. Here are the steps:

1. Once you’ve traced the front blouse pattern piece and drawn in the seam lines, find your bust apex and mark it on the pattern piece. Draw a line that runs parallel to the center front and starts at the apex marking, continuing down parallel to the center-front fold line so that it intersects the hem. Draw a second straight line from the bust apex to about 1/3 of the way up the armhole. Then cut the pattern along the line, leaving an un-cut paper “hinge” at the armhole seam line. If any of this in confusing, it’s all explained in great detail in my Creativebug class.

2. Draw a second line that starts about half-way across the neck line and intersects the bust apex. Cut on that line, leaving a paper “hinge” at the apex.

3. Spread the pattern piece at the vertical cut, keeping the various sections of the pattern flat while spreading the two “halves” of the blouse to add more space. Be sure, as you spread, that you keep the space even from the apex to the hem. If you’re a C-cup, spread the cut line by approximately 1/2″ while keeping the two edges parallel. For a D cup, spread the cut line by 3/4″-1″. The amount of extra space you add will taper to nothing at the paper hinges, so the length of the seam line at the underarm won’t change. Notice that as you spread the vertical line the gap at the neckline will grow. The combination of adding extra width at the chest and creating a greater amount of gathering at the neckline will allow extra room at the bust without significantly altering the rest of the pattern. It’s the equivalent of making a bigger dart, but the dart isn’t visible. Cool, right?

4. Tape tissue or plain paper behind the cuts to fill the gaps produced by the spreading. Then redraw the neck edge, blending a new cut line. Add length to the center-front hem, following the original shape of the blouse/dress hem. To do this, simply trace the original hem, starting at the side seams and keeping the grain lines parallel to each other.

The pattern is now ready! These little changes will help you to get a better fit from the pattern right away, and you can further tweak the fit later, according to your particular needs.

If you missed it, you can see the coordinating kimono jackets I made from the pattern, and you can pick up a copy of the pattern itself. I hope you’ll post photos of your finished B6464 tops! Be sure to tag them #B6464 and #sewlisette on Instagram, and add them to our SewLisette Flickr group.

This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Oliver + S

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Sewing Space Tours… Jade’s Kitsch Haven!

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Hello! Lexy here, to bring you another lovely Sewing Space, where a crafter show us around their creative area. Today we have a sweet space in South Wales, belonging to a dressmakers who has an enviable 60s style handmade wardrobe – we love seeing her makes on Instagram. Let’s hear more from the lady herself…

Hello! I’m Jade, welcome to my little sewing sanctuary in sunny South Wales. I am relatively new to the realms of dressmaking and have only really been getting to know my way around a sewing machine for the past three years. By day I work in an office-based role in Bristol but by night can be found in my little sewing haven, musing over my next big make.

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

I have always been a creative individual and have enjoyed crafting from a young age. At university I studied Graphic Design, which instilled my admiration of beautiful craftsmanship and contemporary design. There was a time when I believed my love for fashion and textiles would be limited to high street trending ready-to-wear garments. Learning of the wonderful indie sewing makers movement really changed all of this for me and after pouring over many inspirational sewing blogs (including Tilly and the Buttons!), I wanted in! In the beginning I attended a brilliant beginners dressmaking class and learnt basic skills and techniques but soon realised that if I was going to take the next step I’d need to make some room at home to build upon these skills!

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

I started off sewing at home at my kitchen table but soon yearned for a larger space to store all of my dressmaking paraphernalia, which was growing at an alarming rate! Two thirds of my spare bedroom has thus been transformed to home a retro writing desk, some shelving, a storage trolley and a few trinkets to decorate. Overall I’d probably say that my space has a bit of a kitsch vibe about it while still being quite minimalistic. I try not to sprout out too much as the other the other third of the room is occupied by my rather understanding boyfriend who uses his space for his photography hobby, and our pet lizard (‘Lizzy’).

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

Quirky storage boxes and prettily patterned tins are a bit of a weak spot – I love a good storage solution! Not only do I find it quite therapeutic categorising all of my notions, tools, threads, patterns and fabric but I also find it much easier to pick up a project if I know where everything is. Working in the week means that sewing time is precious in the evenings and this is why having a dedicated sewing space is so great, as it saves time having to set things up and pack things away all of the time. I try and sew a few times a week but generally have more time to get stuck into a project over the weekend, usually with a nice cup of tea and some biccies.

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

I am a bit of a planner and like to make a mood board to help me decide how the final garment I am making might look – the idea stage is just as fun as the construction! In addition to our resident gecko I have two gorgeous little helpers who keep me company while making, Henry and Coco the Chihuahuas. Coco is a puppy and can often be seen running around the house having fun with rogue scraps or on occasions a snail (pin-free) pincushion!

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

I’m not much of a fabric hoarder and only really have two main stashes of fabric. Interestingly my stashes mainly comprise of patterned fabrics that I’ve had for a couple of years now before I discovered my fondness for plainer fabrics. I love interesting prints but soon realised that although the pieces I’d bought were really striking, often they wouldn’t be something that I would necessarily wear. Nowadays I tend to gravitate towards plain, bold coloured fabrics and sew them up straight away, so they don’t hang about for long!

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

As you can probably see I don’t have a great deal of space in my sewing area and unfortunately can’t quite squeeze in another desk for my overlocker. For this reason I hacked an Ikea footstool into an overlocking station by attaching a couple of tin trays, a few hooks and a lick of paint which now means that I can sew and overlock with ease – yay!

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

Although I am a fairly new sewist, dressmaking has been in my family for generations. My most treasured possession is my dressmaking scissors given to me by my lovely mum who was a fanatical dressmaker herself! My mum sadly passed a couple of years ago and every time I use these scissors to make a garment it gives me a warming sense of pride and connection.

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

My favourite guilty pleasure of all (even more so than fabric shopping!) is acquiring vintage sewing patterns. My pattern collection comprises of a few commercial patterns, lots of lovely indie patterns (notably Tilly and the Buttons of course) and my beloved, ever growing collection of vintage sewing patterns. Over the past couple of years I have been lucky enough to collect patterns from various decades including the 40s, 50s and 70s but my favourite decade of all has to be the swinging 60s! I love the futuristic undertones in the styling of many of the garments from this period paired with the flamboyant expressions of colour.

Sewing Space Tours... Jade's Kitsch Haven!

I think a wonderful thing about vintage sewing patterns is that they all have a story to tell and it is quite remarkable to think that they are still being enjoyed decades after they were first printed. I try to keep the most delicate patterns in cellophane sleeves, away from the sunlight to prevent them from aging any further and when it’s time to use a pattern, I tend to trace off all of the pieces onto tissue paper to try and preserve the original pattern pieces. Etsy and eBay are a vintage-pattern treasure trove but I have also found a couple of gems at vintage fairs…it can be a bit addictive though! The sky’s the limit… well, my spare room for now!

Thank you so much for letting me share my little sewing space with you!

Thank you for sharing your lovely space with us, Jade. We’d love to spend an afternoon sewing with you, especially if Henry and Coco are around to assist! 

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