Pattern Review: CNT Pattern Co. A Little Somethin’ JacketJune 12, 2017 / byAnnette / Categories : Feeds
Greetings Fellow Sewists! I’m Annette from The Sewful Life and I finally made a pattern I’ve owned for years – CNT Patterns’ A Little Somethin’ Jacket. I really think you’re going to love it! It’s quick and easy to make, comfortable, fits well and I get loads of compliments when I wear it. And . . . we do love compliments – right?
I’m kind of a rebellious sewist. I think just following a pattern is boring, so I usually mix up views, cut up pattern pieces or use fabric and embellishments in ways the designer didn’t include. It’s not that I don’t like the original design, it’s just that I love to play and I want the end result to match my own personal vision.
I made my A Little Somethin’ Jacket for a class I was teaching, chose two pieces of Shannon Fabrics Embrace Double Gauze and played with some color blocking. And, just to be truthful, I was provided the fabrics by Shannon, but I paid for the pattern and all of my opinions are my own.
This is the fabric that was originally made for baby swaddles, but since I’m an avid clothing sewist, I thought it looked like great fashion fabric. It’s lightweight, 100% Cotton and about 52” wide, so It works well for curvy sizes. I’d stay away from the duckies and bunnies, but the solids, graphic prints and florals are quite lovely. Other brands of double gauze would be lovely, too.
Do you still call it color blocking when you use a print and a solid? Close enough, I think! After making a sketch in my design notebook, I decided to use Herringbone Royal for the back and upper front and Solid Cobalt for sleeves and the lower front. To create my color blocked look, I drew a line on the front body pattern piece 10” up from the bottom edge. Next, I traced a new bottom piece, adding a ¼” seam allowance to the top edge. On the original front body piece, I folded the bottom up ¼” from the line I drew, so there was a seam allowance on that edge, too.
My pre-sketching was super important to my jacket’s success. It gave me a chance to see what my color/print blocking would look like in the finished jacket and the opportunity to “move” the pieces around on paper without cutting into my fabric first. I really love the page layout and usability of Cashmerette’s Curvy Sketchbook and keep it close to my cutting table. Sometimes I’m really daring with my makes but, most of the time, I do try to avoid potential disasters!
So, let’s talk about the pattern. I chose the size 20 (designed for a 44” bust, 36” waist and 48” hip) and found that I did not need to make any adjustments since it’s a straight, loose fit. My height is 5’7” and I’m a pretty classic apple body type with a 46” bust, 42”waist, 45” tummy and 47” hips. There are just three pattern pieces, so it’s wonderfully quick to put together.
The pattern instructions are very clear and easy to follow. The only semi-tricky part is where the front band/collar joins to the back neck (circled in the picture). It’s not hard and if you’ve done this type of join before, you’ll have no trouble at all. If you haven’t done this before, don’t worry – the instructions are great. It’s a good skill to add to your sewing “toolbox”, too!
My sleeves were cut at the 3/4 length offered on the pattern and I chose the shorter jacket body length (22-1/2”). I love it that there are options in the pattern – you can make a full-length sleeve or a longer (25-1/2”) body length, too. Since the design lines are simple and straightforward, it would be easy to make the jacket coat or duster length or adjust the sleeves to a short length.
Both the sleeves and body hems were topstitched with matching navy thread. I used this same color for the bottom hem of the jacket and the topstitching along the front and neck. This is how my clothes are constructed whenever possible. Most of the designs I sew are easy-fit with simple lines and I love the speed of serging using a 3mm length, four thread overlock stitch for stability.
A serged finish on the hem edges meant that I didn’t have to turn under the edge, so it prevented bulk. This gave the hems a nice smooth line with no ridge under the topstitching. It would be easy to turn up a cuff on this sleeve, too, if you like that look.
Here are my CSC Pattern Review ratings for A Little Somethin’ Jacket:
Size Range – 4*
Instructions – 5
Construction Process – 5
Final Fit – 5
Overall Rating – 4.5
*I do think this style would work for everyone, but the size range just goes up to 24 (48” bust, 50” hip), which may be limiting for some curvy lasses. However, since the lines are pretty straight, sizing up would probably be pretty easy.
Would I make the A Little Somethin’ Jacket again? YES!!! Did I say that loud enough? It’s now starring on my TNT list – here’s why…
- It was quick, the instructions were great and the styling is versatile.
- The fabric requirements are reasonable (2 – 3 yards) and work well for the lengths I keep in my stash of pretties. And, I do love to sew from my stash.
- The jacket looks and feels fabulous, dahling… and I get LOADS of compliments when I wear it. And, I kind of… well, okay – TOTALLY, love compliments!
- The simple lines of this design would beautifully show off lots of amazing fabrics. I’m thinking solid linen, floral rayon, drapey wool for Fall, a border print and, even though it’s designed for woven fabrics, a not-so-stretchy knit, too.
This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Curvy Sewing Collective
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Hello! Lexy here, to bring you another lovely Sewing Space, where a crafter show us around their creative area. Today we have a sweet space in South Wales, belonging to a dressmakers who has an enviable 60s style handmade wardrobe – we love seeing her makes on Instagram. Let’s hear more from the lady herself…
Hello! I’m Jade, welcome to my little sewing sanctuary in sunny South Wales. I am relatively new to the realms of dressmaking and have only really been getting to know my way around a sewing machine for the past three years. By day I work in an office-based role in Bristol but by night can be found in my little sewing haven, musing over my next big make.
I have always been a creative individual and have enjoyed crafting from a young age. At university I studied Graphic Design, which instilled my admiration of beautiful craftsmanship and contemporary design. There was a time when I believed my love for fashion and textiles would be limited to high street trending ready-to-wear garments. Learning of the wonderful indie sewing makers movement really changed all of this for me and after pouring over many inspirational sewing blogs (including Tilly and the Buttons!), I wanted in! In the beginning I attended a brilliant beginners dressmaking class and learnt basic skills and techniques but soon realised that if I was going to take the next step I’d need to make some room at home to build upon these skills!
I started off sewing at home at my kitchen table but soon yearned for a larger space to store all of my dressmaking paraphernalia, which was growing at an alarming rate! Two thirds of my spare bedroom has thus been transformed to home a retro writing desk, some shelving, a storage trolley and a few trinkets to decorate. Overall I’d probably say that my space has a bit of a kitsch vibe about it while still being quite minimalistic. I try not to sprout out too much as the other the other third of the room is occupied by my rather understanding boyfriend who uses his space for his photography hobby, and our pet lizard (‘Lizzy’).
Quirky storage boxes and prettily patterned tins are a bit of a weak spot – I love a good storage solution! Not only do I find it quite therapeutic categorising all of my notions, tools, threads, patterns and fabric but I also find it much easier to pick up a project if I know where everything is. Working in the week means that sewing time is precious in the evenings and this is why having a dedicated sewing space is so great, as it saves time having to set things up and pack things away all of the time. I try and sew a few times a week but generally have more time to get stuck into a project over the weekend, usually with a nice cup of tea and some biccies.
I am a bit of a planner and like to make a mood board to help me decide how the final garment I am making might look – the idea stage is just as fun as the construction! In addition to our resident gecko I have two gorgeous little helpers who keep me company while making, Henry and Coco the Chihuahuas. Coco is a puppy and can often be seen running around the house having fun with rogue scraps or on occasions a snail (pin-free) pincushion!
I’m not much of a fabric hoarder and only really have two main stashes of fabric. Interestingly my stashes mainly comprise of patterned fabrics that I’ve had for a couple of years now before I discovered my fondness for plainer fabrics. I love interesting prints but soon realised that although the pieces I’d bought were really striking, often they wouldn’t be something that I would necessarily wear. Nowadays I tend to gravitate towards plain, bold coloured fabrics and sew them up straight away, so they don’t hang about for long!
As you can probably see I don’t have a great deal of space in my sewing area and unfortunately can’t quite squeeze in another desk for my overlocker. For this reason I hacked an Ikea footstool into an overlocking station by attaching a couple of tin trays, a few hooks and a lick of paint which now means that I can sew and overlock with ease – yay!
Although I am a fairly new sewist, dressmaking has been in my family for generations. My most treasured possession is my dressmaking scissors given to me by my lovely mum who was a fanatical dressmaker herself! My mum sadly passed a couple of years ago and every time I use these scissors to make a garment it gives me a warming sense of pride and connection.
My favourite guilty pleasure of all (even more so than fabric shopping!) is acquiring vintage sewing patterns. My pattern collection comprises of a few commercial patterns, lots of lovely indie patterns (notably Tilly and the Buttons of course) and my beloved, ever growing collection of vintage sewing patterns. Over the past couple of years I have been lucky enough to collect patterns from various decades including the 40s, 50s and 70s but my favourite decade of all has to be the swinging 60s! I love the futuristic undertones in the styling of many of the garments from this period paired with the flamboyant expressions of colour.
I think a wonderful thing about vintage sewing patterns is that they all have a story to tell and it is quite remarkable to think that they are still being enjoyed decades after they were first printed. I try to keep the most delicate patterns in cellophane sleeves, away from the sunlight to prevent them from aging any further and when it’s time to use a pattern, I tend to trace off all of the pieces onto tissue paper to try and preserve the original pattern pieces. Etsy and eBay are a vintage-pattern treasure trove but I have also found a couple of gems at vintage fairs…it can be a bit addictive though! The sky’s the limit… well, my spare room for now!
Thank you so much for letting me share my little sewing space with you!
Thank you for sharing your lovely space with us, Jade. We’d love to spend an afternoon sewing with you, especially if Henry and Coco are around to assist!
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