Pattern Review: Scroop Ngaio BlouseJune 14, 2017 / byJessica / Categories : Feeds
Scroop Patterns is one of the newer indie pattern companies. They are only a little more than a year old, but word on the blogoshere is owner Leimomi Oakes aka The Dreamstress really knows her stuff when it comes to pattern drafting. At the beginning of May Scroop released the Ngaio Blouse and I knew I had to give it a try. Not only would it fit perfectly into my capsule wardrobe plans, but it also comes with CUP SIZES! Hooray!!!
The Ngaio Blouse is an adorable and feminine 1930s style blouse. It comes in sizes 32-50 (bust 50″, waist 44″, hip 54″), including front pieces to accommodate A-B, C-DD, and F+ bust sizes. There are two versions of the gather front blouse, one with sleeves and one without. No closures needed! It has just enough ease to be able to pull on and off.
For my measurements (42/36/47) I selected a size 40 F+ and graded out to a size 42 for the waist and hip. The website only shows a general sizing chart, but the pattern files have instructions to walk you through selecting the best size. My upper bust is 38 and my full bust is 42, so that landed me in the F+ part of the chart.
All of Scroop Patterns are sold as PDFs. Honestly, it is not my favorite format, but given this is a blouse, the number of pages to tape together wasn’t too bad. The pattern pieces are placed in a really thoughtful way and the instructions tell you which pages to print for each cup size. If you prefer to use a copy shop, the pattern files also include A0 files broken down by the different cup sizes.
I really wanted to stick to the fabrics in my capsule wardrobe plan so I used the Robert Kaufman Cambridge Lawn that I’d pulled from my stash. A white blouse is so versatile if you can manage not to spill spaghetti sauce down the front. (Spoiler alert: I failed.) I didn’t make any adjustments to this white version aside from grading to a larger size for the waist and hip.
The construction process was really smooth. Scroop includes two different sets of instructions in all their patterns. The first file is the full instructions that walk you through each step in great detail. There are cutting diagrams, reminders to finish you seams, and sewing tips. My favorite part of the full instructions is they also instruct you which direction to sew the seams. I don’t think I’ve seen this on any other pattern and I just loved it. One of those details that justifies the cost of the pattern.
The streamlined instructions are just as you’d expect. The sizing information, cutting instructions, and sewing instructions are super condensed. The whole file is only 4 pages long and the sewing instructions fit on a single page. Just perfect for the experienced seamstress or if you just need a refresher when making this pattern multiple times.
Ultimately, I found the fit of the Ngaio Blouse to be a little on the snug side. Usually I find the back of patterns to be too wide, but this was a tad tight. Though I did wear this blouse to work and never felt constricted, you can see pull lines in the photo above. At the same time, it seemed to have a tad too much room in the bust. The waist fit well, but the hips were on the snug side. Though I was in-between sizes on the hips and went with the smaller size. Scroop does describe the pattern has having a slim fit through the hips, so the tightness makes sense. When I wore it tucked in to my skirt it felt just right and my blouse stayed perfectly tucked all day. In fact many of my coworkers commented on how nice the blouse looked!
I have actually already made this blouse a second time. Following the advice commonly used for Cashmerette patterns, I went up a size through the shoulders and hips, but also down one cup size. So version 2 is a size 42 C-DD with a size 42 waist and 44 hip.
I used a rayon batiste that was just as light as air and perfect for a summer work blouse. I like the fit on version 2 a lot more. It doesn’t restrain my movement at all and the fit through the hips is more comfortable.
Would I make a 3rd version? I’m not sure. I really enjoyed sewing this together, but the styles is so distinctive that I don’t think I really need another version this summer. Maybe next year I’ll make another or if I switch up my wardrobe’s color palate.
Ratings (1-5, 5 is highest): The Ngaio Blouse from Scroop Patterns
Size Range – 4, Better than most but not as inclusive as I’d like. Including cup sizing is awesome! The size 50 when using the F+ front fits a size 52 bust, so not a ton more room, but it’s something.
Instructions – 5, The pattern really shines in the instructions! I’m impressed by the full and streamlined versions.
Construction Process – 5, Smooth sailing. Notches line up and seams are trued perfectly.
Final Fit – 4, It ran a tad small in the shoulders for me.
Overall Rating – 4.5, A great pattern for a vintage inspired blouse. I love how easy it came together, especially since there were no zippers or buttons! This one will stay in my stash to make again when I need a new version.
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