Pattern Review: Scroop Ngaio BlouseJune 14, 2017 / byJessica / Categories : Feeds
Scroop Patterns is one of the newer indie pattern companies. They are only a little more than a year old, but word on the blogoshere is owner Leimomi Oakes aka The Dreamstress really knows her stuff when it comes to pattern drafting. At the beginning of May Scroop released the Ngaio Blouse and I knew I had to give it a try. Not only would it fit perfectly into my capsule wardrobe plans, but it also comes with CUP SIZES! Hooray!!!
The Ngaio Blouse is an adorable and feminine 1930s style blouse. It comes in sizes 32-50 (bust 50″, waist 44″, hip 54″), including front pieces to accommodate A-B, C-DD, and F+ bust sizes. There are two versions of the gather front blouse, one with sleeves and one without. No closures needed! It has just enough ease to be able to pull on and off.
For my measurements (42/36/47) I selected a size 40 F+ and graded out to a size 42 for the waist and hip. The website only shows a general sizing chart, but the pattern files have instructions to walk you through selecting the best size. My upper bust is 38 and my full bust is 42, so that landed me in the F+ part of the chart.
All of Scroop Patterns are sold as PDFs. Honestly, it is not my favorite format, but given this is a blouse, the number of pages to tape together wasn’t too bad. The pattern pieces are placed in a really thoughtful way and the instructions tell you which pages to print for each cup size. If you prefer to use a copy shop, the pattern files also include A0 files broken down by the different cup sizes.
I really wanted to stick to the fabrics in my capsule wardrobe plan so I used the Robert Kaufman Cambridge Lawn that I’d pulled from my stash. A white blouse is so versatile if you can manage not to spill spaghetti sauce down the front. (Spoiler alert: I failed.) I didn’t make any adjustments to this white version aside from grading to a larger size for the waist and hip.
The construction process was really smooth. Scroop includes two different sets of instructions in all their patterns. The first file is the full instructions that walk you through each step in great detail. There are cutting diagrams, reminders to finish you seams, and sewing tips. My favorite part of the full instructions is they also instruct you which direction to sew the seams. I don’t think I’ve seen this on any other pattern and I just loved it. One of those details that justifies the cost of the pattern.
The streamlined instructions are just as you’d expect. The sizing information, cutting instructions, and sewing instructions are super condensed. The whole file is only 4 pages long and the sewing instructions fit on a single page. Just perfect for the experienced seamstress or if you just need a refresher when making this pattern multiple times.
Ultimately, I found the fit of the Ngaio Blouse to be a little on the snug side. Usually I find the back of patterns to be too wide, but this was a tad tight. Though I did wear this blouse to work and never felt constricted, you can see pull lines in the photo above. At the same time, it seemed to have a tad too much room in the bust. The waist fit well, but the hips were on the snug side. Though I was in-between sizes on the hips and went with the smaller size. Scroop does describe the pattern has having a slim fit through the hips, so the tightness makes sense. When I wore it tucked in to my skirt it felt just right and my blouse stayed perfectly tucked all day. In fact many of my coworkers commented on how nice the blouse looked!
I have actually already made this blouse a second time. Following the advice commonly used for Cashmerette patterns, I went up a size through the shoulders and hips, but also down one cup size. So version 2 is a size 42 C-DD with a size 42 waist and 44 hip.
I used a rayon batiste that was just as light as air and perfect for a summer work blouse. I like the fit on version 2 a lot more. It doesn’t restrain my movement at all and the fit through the hips is more comfortable.
Would I make a 3rd version? I’m not sure. I really enjoyed sewing this together, but the styles is so distinctive that I don’t think I really need another version this summer. Maybe next year I’ll make another or if I switch up my wardrobe’s color palate.
Ratings (1-5, 5 is highest): The Ngaio Blouse from Scroop Patterns
Size Range – 4, Better than most but not as inclusive as I’d like. Including cup sizing is awesome! The size 50 when using the F+ front fits a size 52 bust, so not a ton more room, but it’s something.
Instructions – 5, The pattern really shines in the instructions! I’m impressed by the full and streamlined versions.
Construction Process – 5, Smooth sailing. Notches line up and seams are trued perfectly.
Final Fit – 4, It ran a tad small in the shoulders for me.
Overall Rating – 4.5, A great pattern for a vintage inspired blouse. I love how easy it came together, especially since there were no zippers or buttons! This one will stay in my stash to make again when I need a new version.
This is a syndicated post. Please visit the original author at Curvy Sewing Collective
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I added an inside pocket, and made it as big as I could without interfering with the darts. It’s big enough for a phone.
I stuck a pin through the lining and leather where the tailor’s tack was (the tack was just in the lining), to mark the snap position on the leather. Then I used the washer as a template, and marked the position of the prongs with a pen (making sure it wouldn’t bleed through to the front!).
|Admire that lovely top stitching!|
How much adjustment do you do on a very simple pattern? Do you feel it’s worthwhile to make very small changes to get it just right or perhaps you sew up simple things as is and save your efforts for a special dress or coat.
This simple dress pattern is something that I choose as one of the suggestions for my Sew a Dress class at Hello Stitch in Berkeley. (scheduled again for Sun. July 30 – the first one was great fun. More details at the bottom of this post on all the upcoming classes). As it happens Craftsy asked me to write a longer post outlining all the steps to sew a simple dress, consequently I decided to sew up this pattern and get a lot of things done with one project. Plus I’ve been on a shift dress kick lately. They are such simple and pleasant things to wear. Since it was 107˚F in the SHADE here yesterday I would rather have worn a dress made of ice cubes but since that is not going to happen a shift dress it is.
I have had this fabric in my stash for a good 5 or 6 years. It’s a cotton batik that I bought in Hawaii, quite a large amount (5 yards) and just never found a use for it. Slightly heavy as a lot of batiks are, so not really good for most dresses plus the vertical stripe had me stumped. I think I found the perfect style for it that uses the stripe best. Plus I can wear my stripes navy blue espadrille sandals – double win.
Here’s the pattern envelope, with a sneak peek of a subsequent version of this dress. Which everyone has gone wild for on my Instagram teases, embroidered denim must be the thing this summer. The envelope says D0569 but all the pattern pieces say New Look 6500 so I’m calling it that. I really like New Look patterns, they come up with some super cute dresses and tops, plus they include all sizes in one envelope and cost $ 3.99 all the time.
Onward to my adjustments: I sewed this dress for the Craftsy post, not as a wearable but as a “photograph-able” item, i.e. something that would really show in the step-by-step tutorial but I had no intention of wearing it. It was actually quite a pleasure to just sew up a dress with no changes, I sewed the size 12 and went from there.
Here is the version I sewed for Craftsy, in a quilting cotton that I had in my stash, I think a remainder from a project I did for someone on Etsy ages ago. And I really loathe this color of green so don’t even tell me that you like this dress on me 🙂 Plus for the most part sewing/wearing garments with quilting cotton is a bit NO for me. With some exceptions they always look a bit off: too wrinkly, too juvenile, too unsophisticated to claim my interest.
But I include the photo of me wearing this one to show the neckline fit. That neckline was choking me – I don’t like that high round neckline and when you move your head forward it’s so uncomfortable. Good shoe match thought, right?
Back to the blue and white batik version. Can you see the difference in the neckline? It is so much more comfortable for me in the second version. I wanted to figure out exactly how much to open the neck so I made a version of just the top half of the dress in swedish tracing paper – and every time I use that I remember that is has absolutely no give. While it seems like a good idea because you can sew it – putting it on is not so easy. I did put a zipper so I could actually try it on – which worked in the end but it was kind of shredded. However it was good enough to slice and dice a bit, figuring out how I wanted the final neckline to be shaped.
I cut out the batik version based on my new neckline, and basted it together at the shoulder seams to see if I liked the neckline. It still seemed a bit too high for my preference and also I like the armholes to be more cut in at the shoulder in a sleeveless dress. So instead of cutting more off the edges of the dress I made a one piece facing for front and back, and then used tracing paper to mark a seam line. At the neck I took away a further 5/8″ (total seam allowance now 1.25″) and then on the armholes I think I sewed it at around 7/8″ which makes the armhole a bit bigger all around. You have to be careful that it doesn’t make the armhole too low but this dress had a very tight armhole so there was plenty of room.
On my next version of this dress (the embroidered chambray fabric) I’ll show how I make the one piece facing plus this upcoming version is lined so it incorporates facing and lining together.
The original New Look pattern had separate neck and armhole facings which works ok, not my preference but not as horrible as some make it out to be. But there’s a better way. Another option for these simple summer dresses is bias binding but I wanted to show the traditional or basic type of dress sewing.
But we are not done yet! In fact this adjustment should have come up first in my writing but I only remembered to take this picture a few minutes and include it. The bust dart on this dress is both large and high. I measured it on the pattern piece and could see that it needed to be lower so I did that before I did anything else, just a straightforward shift downward about 3/4″. The bust dart is kind of larger than it would be had there been other darts (vertical waist darts) or other shaping. Trying it on it made the dart a bit too pointy – not my favorite look. So I reduced the width of the dart.
On the tracing paper on the left you can see the faint outline of the original dart, too high. The second placement, lower but too big, and then the final version in the purple dotted line, just right. I sound like Goldilocks don’t I but if you’re going to do adjustments you might as well go all the way until you like the fit.
Back and side view, you can barely see the dart but that is the ideal, at least for me. Since the side seams were not even in length I split the difference at the top of the seam at the armhole and sliced off about 3/8″ off the side back at that point. Worked out fine.
So that’s chapter one on my summer shift dress extravaganza. I have some more complex things in line for my sewing table but not sure what order I will sew them.
Here’s the link to that Craftsy post: The Complete Beginners Guide to Sewing a Dress.
Update on classes at Hello Stitch Studio on Berkeley. The Fit Lab was great – we are going to schedule this class again soon. In July we are repeating Saturday classes for sewing Skirts, Tunic Tops, and a new on starting on Wed 7/26 in the evening is a Button-front shirt class. All these classes are two sessions scheduled a week apart so not a long term time commitment and you will get a project done (or nearly) and learn some new and useful techniques. The Dress class is an all-day one on Sun. 7/30. FYI: I’ve found parking to be surprisingly easy around the studio and it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Berkeley Bart station so really convenient to get to.
This was yesterday afternoon. Survival mode with an iced coffee. thankfully lots cooler today (ha ha only mid 90’s˚F).
Happy weekend sewing,
today’s garden photo, this white daisy just looks so calm and cool, even in this heat!read more
Surprise Watercolor Drawings are a fun way to paint! Kids can make their creations, give them to a friend, and watch as their friend uncovers the magic drawing using watercolor paint! We’ve partnered with Imperial Sugar to bring you this fun activity, featuring sugar glue that you can make at home! Surprise Watercolor Drawings…read more