Self-Drafted Floral Linen Pants!June 6, 2017 / byPeter Lappin / Categories : Feeds
So last week I sewed up a pair of pants using the pants pattern I drafted for myself in my menswear patternmaking class at FIT, which ended last month.
I learned a lot!
I made these pants from a relatively coarse, heavy floral linen I found at Mood that had a "closeout" tag. I can't resist a "closeout" tag! The print was very different from anything I'd seen before -- it reminded me of the Art Deco carpeting at Radio City Music Hall-- so I decided to give it try. Given its weight, I figured it was perfect for pants.
The pattern itself is straightforward: flat-front pants with two side pockets, two single-welt back pockets, and a two-piece waistband so I could fit the pants at the center back seam (instead of at the side seams before attaching the waistband, as one does with jeans).
They came together easily. I hemmed them even though I suspect they'll shrink a bit more in the wash. Fortunately my hem is 3" deep.
A few more detail shots below.
Waistband and belt loop.
There's a hook-and-eye closure at the waistband in addition to a button. That way there's less stress on the buttonhole and the waistband is more secure. I may upgrade to a nicer button down the line, though, hey, it will always be under a belt.
In an ideal world the back waistband would lie on top of the center back seam (below), but this way (with the CB seam over the waistband, spread open, and tacked down) the pants are much easier to alter, should I need to. From the outside you can't tell the difference.
Since I was using a one-piece waistband instead of a separate inside facing (or that ready-made, stiff curtain you see in men's dress pants), I cut my waistband along the selvage. That way I could just let the inside waistband hang (as opposed to folding it under and stitching or finishing it with bias tape). Less bulk.
I am proud of my single-welt back pockets. They're hard to see, but I put a lot of work into them.
In front are two side pockets.
Finally, a zipper fly.
I really love these pants and it's nice to be able to say I drafted the pattern myself. I hope eventually to make up the pants with all the button-on/button-off pieces -- maybe sometime this summer. We shall see.
Have a great day, everybody!
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