Traditional Method for Sewing a Shirt Collar // Closet Case PatternsJune 9, 2017 / byHeather Lou / Categories : Feeds
Yesterday I showed you a slightly unconventional method for sewing a collar for the Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress. While this is my preferred construction technique for shirt-making, I thought I’d demonstrate the traditional method as well; you should try both and see what you prefer.
To start with, you’ll need the collar stands and top and under collar cut out. Interface one of the collar stands and the top collar piece only. If you’d like to reduce bulk, you can trim the interfacing so it doesn’t extend into the seam allowance, but we didn’t do so in this example.
Sew your collar pieces right sides together. I suggest using our tutorial on sewing sharp collar points first. The under collar is slightly smaller than the top; this helps roll the top collar over the under collar a little bit so it doesn’t peek out. Grade your seams. Press thoroughly and topstitch 1/4″ away from the edge. This collar was actually sewn before I tested sewing sharp collar points and was done using the “miter” corner method with a squared off corner – you can see how blunt it is. Use the thread pulling technique for sharper corners!
Sandwich the collar in between the two stands, right side together. The interfaced side of the collar should be touching the interfaced side of the stand. Pin into place.
Before stitching along the top edge of the stand, you may want to draw in the curved seam allowance using a seam gauge or use the pattern piece as a template. This makes it easier to get a consistent curve when you’re sewing.
Stitch the collar and stands together using a short stitch length (2mm).
Grade and trim the collar stand to reduce bulk and let you easily turn the stand right side out. Don’t clip the curve, just trim close to the seam allowance.
Turn right side out and press thoroughly.
Measure and mark the seam allowance along each shirt front at the neckline. Staystitch just inside the seam allowance all the way around the neckline of your shirt.
Pin the stand to the neckline of the shirt, matching up the edges of the stand with the edges of the shirt. Only pin the outer stand to the neckline, and leave the seam allowances free.
Clip along the curves of the neckline to the staystitch line to “flatten” the seam and get the neckline and stand lined up.
Starting on one end, stitch the stand to the shirt as close as possible to the edge as you can get, without stitching the seam allowance of the stand itself (tuck that seam allowance up and out of the way when you get started).
Continue stitching to the end, again, not catching the seam allowance of the stand itself in the stitching at the other end. The edge of teh stand should be even with teh edge of the shirt on either side when you’re finished.
Here’s the tricky part. The outer stand is now to sewn to the neckline like so:
In order to get a nice clean joint here, we are going to tuck everything inside the corner of that stand and sew about an inch or so in. It’s kind of hard to show in a picture, but essentially you want to roll the collar out of the way, and then turn the stand wrong side out.
The inner stand should fold over along the outer stand, with the collar and edge of the shirt in between rolled out of the way of the seam allowance. You are only catching the seam allowance of the shirt (not the front of the shirt) and the two collar stands with a few pins. The collar and shirt front are rolled out of the way and won’t get caught in the stitching. It will be very tight, but the goal is to stitch that corner for an inch or so, to create a super clear join on front and back.
At your machine, stitch those seam allowances together at 5/8″ as far as you can without catching the shirt front in your stitching. Use a short stitch length, and then trim around the corner and grade seams to reduce bulk.
When you pull the stand right side out, you should have nice clean corners on either side where all the seam allowances are tucked inside. This can be a tricky step so don’t be too hard on yourself if it takes a few tries to get right.
Press the raw seam of the inner stand under along the neckline seam in between the two corners you just sewed.
Before we topstitch the collar into place, we want to secure the inner stand in place. You can slipstitch it in place by hand, use wonder tape, or use a fabric glue stick and glue baste in place. You can also try pinning it in place but I find you’re more likely to get puckers and misalign the inner stand this way.
With inner stand secured, it’s time to topstitch. This is one of the trickiest parts of sewing shirts because it can be challenging to get your stitching even on both inner and outer stand. Most instructions call for you to topstitch on the outside of the shirt, but if you always wear your shirt unbuttoned like I do, you may want to do it from the inside so you can guarantee the topstitching is even on the side of the stand you’re most likely to see.
Start your stitching at the center back of the shirt. You’ll be topstitching about 1/8″ from the edge; an edge stitch foot can help you get even stitching here. Ignore the pins in the picture below; if you’ve glue or hand basted the stand in place you won’t need them.
Continue sewing all the way around the perimeter of the stand. When you approach the corners, leave the needle down and turn your work.
Continue all the way around until you’ve secured the stand completely.
As I’ve said, I do prefer the more unconventional method, but to each their own!
What’s your preferred method for installing a collar?
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I added an inside pocket, and made it as big as I could without interfering with the darts. It’s big enough for a phone.
I stuck a pin through the lining and leather where the tailor’s tack was (the tack was just in the lining), to mark the snap position on the leather. Then I used the washer as a template, and marked the position of the prongs with a pen (making sure it wouldn’t bleed through to the front!).
|Admire that lovely top stitching!|
How much adjustment do you do on a very simple pattern? Do you feel it’s worthwhile to make very small changes to get it just right or perhaps you sew up simple things as is and save your efforts for a special dress or coat.
This simple dress pattern is something that I choose as one of the suggestions for my Sew a Dress class at Hello Stitch in Berkeley. (scheduled again for Sun. July 30 – the first one was great fun. More details at the bottom of this post on all the upcoming classes). As it happens Craftsy asked me to write a longer post outlining all the steps to sew a simple dress, consequently I decided to sew up this pattern and get a lot of things done with one project. Plus I’ve been on a shift dress kick lately. They are such simple and pleasant things to wear. Since it was 107˚F in the SHADE here yesterday I would rather have worn a dress made of ice cubes but since that is not going to happen a shift dress it is.
I have had this fabric in my stash for a good 5 or 6 years. It’s a cotton batik that I bought in Hawaii, quite a large amount (5 yards) and just never found a use for it. Slightly heavy as a lot of batiks are, so not really good for most dresses plus the vertical stripe had me stumped. I think I found the perfect style for it that uses the stripe best. Plus I can wear my stripes navy blue espadrille sandals – double win.
Here’s the pattern envelope, with a sneak peek of a subsequent version of this dress. Which everyone has gone wild for on my Instagram teases, embroidered denim must be the thing this summer. The envelope says D0569 but all the pattern pieces say New Look 6500 so I’m calling it that. I really like New Look patterns, they come up with some super cute dresses and tops, plus they include all sizes in one envelope and cost $ 3.99 all the time.
Onward to my adjustments: I sewed this dress for the Craftsy post, not as a wearable but as a “photograph-able” item, i.e. something that would really show in the step-by-step tutorial but I had no intention of wearing it. It was actually quite a pleasure to just sew up a dress with no changes, I sewed the size 12 and went from there.
Here is the version I sewed for Craftsy, in a quilting cotton that I had in my stash, I think a remainder from a project I did for someone on Etsy ages ago. And I really loathe this color of green so don’t even tell me that you like this dress on me 🙂 Plus for the most part sewing/wearing garments with quilting cotton is a bit NO for me. With some exceptions they always look a bit off: too wrinkly, too juvenile, too unsophisticated to claim my interest.
But I include the photo of me wearing this one to show the neckline fit. That neckline was choking me – I don’t like that high round neckline and when you move your head forward it’s so uncomfortable. Good shoe match thought, right?
Back to the blue and white batik version. Can you see the difference in the neckline? It is so much more comfortable for me in the second version. I wanted to figure out exactly how much to open the neck so I made a version of just the top half of the dress in swedish tracing paper – and every time I use that I remember that is has absolutely no give. While it seems like a good idea because you can sew it – putting it on is not so easy. I did put a zipper so I could actually try it on – which worked in the end but it was kind of shredded. However it was good enough to slice and dice a bit, figuring out how I wanted the final neckline to be shaped.
I cut out the batik version based on my new neckline, and basted it together at the shoulder seams to see if I liked the neckline. It still seemed a bit too high for my preference and also I like the armholes to be more cut in at the shoulder in a sleeveless dress. So instead of cutting more off the edges of the dress I made a one piece facing for front and back, and then used tracing paper to mark a seam line. At the neck I took away a further 5/8″ (total seam allowance now 1.25″) and then on the armholes I think I sewed it at around 7/8″ which makes the armhole a bit bigger all around. You have to be careful that it doesn’t make the armhole too low but this dress had a very tight armhole so there was plenty of room.
On my next version of this dress (the embroidered chambray fabric) I’ll show how I make the one piece facing plus this upcoming version is lined so it incorporates facing and lining together.
The original New Look pattern had separate neck and armhole facings which works ok, not my preference but not as horrible as some make it out to be. But there’s a better way. Another option for these simple summer dresses is bias binding but I wanted to show the traditional or basic type of dress sewing.
But we are not done yet! In fact this adjustment should have come up first in my writing but I only remembered to take this picture a few minutes and include it. The bust dart on this dress is both large and high. I measured it on the pattern piece and could see that it needed to be lower so I did that before I did anything else, just a straightforward shift downward about 3/4″. The bust dart is kind of larger than it would be had there been other darts (vertical waist darts) or other shaping. Trying it on it made the dart a bit too pointy – not my favorite look. So I reduced the width of the dart.
On the tracing paper on the left you can see the faint outline of the original dart, too high. The second placement, lower but too big, and then the final version in the purple dotted line, just right. I sound like Goldilocks don’t I but if you’re going to do adjustments you might as well go all the way until you like the fit.
Back and side view, you can barely see the dart but that is the ideal, at least for me. Since the side seams were not even in length I split the difference at the top of the seam at the armhole and sliced off about 3/8″ off the side back at that point. Worked out fine.
So that’s chapter one on my summer shift dress extravaganza. I have some more complex things in line for my sewing table but not sure what order I will sew them.
Here’s the link to that Craftsy post: The Complete Beginners Guide to Sewing a Dress.
Update on classes at Hello Stitch Studio on Berkeley. The Fit Lab was great – we are going to schedule this class again soon. In July we are repeating Saturday classes for sewing Skirts, Tunic Tops, and a new on starting on Wed 7/26 in the evening is a Button-front shirt class. All these classes are two sessions scheduled a week apart so not a long term time commitment and you will get a project done (or nearly) and learn some new and useful techniques. The Dress class is an all-day one on Sun. 7/30. FYI: I’ve found parking to be surprisingly easy around the studio and it is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Berkeley Bart station so really convenient to get to.
This was yesterday afternoon. Survival mode with an iced coffee. thankfully lots cooler today (ha ha only mid 90’s˚F).
Happy weekend sewing,
today’s garden photo, this white daisy just looks so calm and cool, even in this heat!read more
Surprise Watercolor Drawings are a fun way to paint! Kids can make their creations, give them to a friend, and watch as their friend uncovers the magic drawing using watercolor paint! We’ve partnered with Imperial Sugar to bring you this fun activity, featuring sugar glue that you can make at home! Surprise Watercolor Drawings…read more