This pattern is Vogue V1537, which is a coat and a dress. It was released earlier this year, and as soon as I spotted the coat, I had to have it. A half price pattern sale at Weaver Dee made it even nicer! I've only seen one version of this coat made up, and that is by Fiona from Diary Of A Chain Stitcher. Her coat is fabulous, click on the link and you'll see what I mean. Here are the pattern line drawings, and the photo from the pattern envelope.
The pattern is beautifully drafted, all the princess seams lined up perfectly (because it's really annoying when they don't!). The instructions say to ease stitch the centre back and front princess seams. That seemed a bit odd, as I thought the centre fronts and side backs would be the bits that needed ease stitched. But I didn't need to ease stitch anything, as the seams went together without it.
All the instructions were clear, especially on clipping and sewing the collars, and also on attaching the lining. I did three things differently though. The first was not to make the bound buttonholes, because I couldn't be bothered. And, boy, was I glad I didn't! My fabric turned out to be a bit of a nightmare, but more on that later. Second was how I sewed the pocket linings. The lining and pocket are sewn right sides together, then turned out and hand-stitched to the coat. Then they are top-stitched to the coat with a 1 cm seam allowance. I used a little trick that I learnt on the Craftsy class for my Butterick 4610 jacket.
I cut out the pocket lining pieces, then trimmed about 2 mm off the edges and the bottom (not the top edge), then I sewed the lining to the pocket. It takes a bit of finessing to get the two edges together, but once it's turned out, then the main fabric rolls slightly to the inside. This is similar to cutting an under collar slightly smaller than a top collar.
You can see how the main fabric is rolling to the inside below.
Which meant the I could catch the needle in the rolled-in bit of the main fabric when hand sewing the pocket the to coat. If I made this again, I think I would make the pocket lining from a colour similar to the main fabric, then there would be no issues with the lining fabric accidentally showing.
The third thing wasn't something that I did this time, but would do if I make this again. I found that when I was sewing on the sleeve tabs that they didn't overlap as much as they should have. I ended up moving them in by 1 cm from the raw edge of the sleeve seams, but next time I would cut them a bit longer.
As mentioned by Fiona, when attaching the lining the instructions talk about sewing to the small circles above the hem. I, too, couldn't find them, so sewed to about 5 inches above the bottom of the coat. I could have sewed to about 3 or 4 inches though.
On to my fabric. Sigh... This is some red stretch twill from My Fabrics. It's lovely fabric for this style of coat, but it hated being gathered at the sleeves. I don't think it helped that the sleeves are two piece sleeves, so the gathering stitches are going through two seams, but it absolutely refused to gather even one centimetre. I ended up easing the sleeve in by hand, and it turned out ok.
Also, I don't love how the collar is rolling back on itself. I've spray starched it, but it could be nicer. That said, it looks a lot better in these photos than it does in my head!
All of my top stitching was done with a triple stitch, which took ages and used loads of thread, but I love how it looks.
The lining fabric is from Minerva Crafts, and I bought it about a million years ago! It's finally found it project. It frayed like nobody's business, and I ended up taking the pinking shears to the seams. There was red and white thread everywhere!
I love how my coat has turned out, and it's just the thing for the UK Spring and Autumn (and some Summer days too).
|I was trying very hard not to drop my coat on the wet ground!|
Have a great weekend,
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