Have you seen the Named Magena sewing pattern? It’s a fringed jumper pattern and I adored it at first sight. The only difference is I made it into a dress first. I used an abstract black & bronze jersey for the yoke section … Continue reading →read more
This was supposed to be a pajama top, but after I began making it, I decided that indeed it would make a great shirt. I used Simplicity 6436 from 1974. It is interesting it is shown as a uni-sex pattern. I think the belt would be a little over the top for me. So, no belt.
I added two inches to the sleeves and body length. Otherwise, besides the decorative stitching with my White 571, I followed the pattern instructions. I serged the seams. If I made this again, I would probably use flat-fell or french seams. A quick project called for quick methods of assembly. After all, this was supposed to be a pajama top.
|Decorative Stitch Selections|
|Max likes my collar|
I am glad I have a huge quantity of this fabric. It is comfy and looks great. This was a great thrift store find.
Now I am not sure if I will go back to pajama tops. The crafting urge is hitting me. Some appliqué, some embroidery, or whatever hits me.
Thanks for stopping.read more
In my blog hop post, I harked back to my series of Mr. Tailor Man posts. You know, the one’s I never finished? For those of you who are having a little trouble remembering, there was a tailor in my town who was retiring, and I basically bought the bulk of his remaining stock and equipment off of him!
So, I thought maybe somebody out there would like to see the final few bits. Ironically, I’ve hardly touched most of it, so they are basically where I left them! But I though some of you guys might like to see!
So the first thing is some tailor’s wax crayons, which are like tailor’s chalk – but wax! They leave a slight mark and I think it irons out of most fabric.
Then there were some shoulder pads! Not sure if I’ll ever get to use them, but more jackets have some sort of padding in the shoulders than I think I realised!
Now these I loved (and I didn’t really get these for very cheap!) – some vintage spools. I look forward to displaying these properly somewhere!
Then we have some dress shields. These can be stitched into the underarms of a dress, so as to protect the garment from any sweat/deodorant, etc. As most of us know, this can otherwise end up in a beloved piece of clothing being damaged or stained.
I got a bunch of random zip. Strangely they were mostly green!
Then I got a bunch of suit buttons. Some are really beautiful! And I have matching small and big ones for the green buttons which is nice.
Some things I got for free were remnant pieces. These are small pieces of lining. most of it doesn’t appeal to me as its a bit polyester-y but the pink piece at the bottom is really lovely – I wish I had more than the smallish piece!
I also got a bunch of suiting scraps, all smallish pieces.
Then there was the bigger suiting pieces. It appears past Emmie was very productive and measured them all! They are full width and the top few pieces ranged from 44cm to 78cm in length.
Then we have the beautiful velvet remnants. I love stroking these. I have no idea what to do with them but I might make a patchwork cushion cover to stroke. I love the deep red and the grey especially.
Then there were some smaller wool remnant pieces.
The most “god knows what I’m going to do with this” piece of fabric is this 100% Silk Italian suiting. Not sure how much is there (most of the stuff is a max of about 3 yards), but it’s apparently worth over £300 if I remember correctly.
Then there’s this bumblebee fabric, which I think was used for butler uniforms? Some sort of uniform. Its actually quite a blue-navy and yellow up close. I think there’s a couple of flaws, but he has noted the total length and unflawed length.
Then there were more wool blends.
And of course, where would you be without your own bolt of hair canvas? Everyone needs a bolt of hair canvas in their stash. Like, duh! I use this in, like, every project. All I hear every day is Mr.G saying, “God, I think you really need to think about stocking up on some more hair canvas”.
So many of you had kind, supportive words for me last week about my new gig and the struggle to balance work/family responsibilities/and a smidgen of personal time. I appreciated your empathy and wish I could invite you all over Thursday nights for the duration of this season! So much so, I woke up again too early for a Saturday — which means I have a few quiet moments to reflect on this week’s episode of Project Runway! As always, have your say below.
The most important lesson from this week’s episode of Project Runway can be summed up in one succinct Ron Swanson quote (presented to you here in poster form, created by the Etsy genius Creative Sobriety):
This week the designers were first tasked with creating a new look from one of the previously eliminated designer’s losing garments — while also assigned with that designer as a helper. This challenge was surely designed by devious producers determined to cause some fireworks between Korina and Char. Though Char put on a good front, Korina huffily asked to be relieved of her contractural duties. Tim let her go (thank you, Tim!) and Alexander instead returned to help Char sew her look.
And as if that challenge wasn’t enough, the designers were then asked to also create a look inspired by the streets of NYC — a perennial challenge that usually results in some of the funnest fashion on Project Runway.
But their divided attention (even with the aid of a previously eliminated designer/sewing elf) was their downfall. You just can’t half-ass two things (in the same vein: I am unfortunately half-assing this blog post right now; my family woke up early too and now they won’t stop talking to me, sitting next to me, reading over my shoulder…it’s so hard to whole-ass something when there’s breakfast to be prepared).
Amanda definitely whole-assed her street style maxi dress. I think we can all agree it was her best work so far this season (even though I shudder to think of actually walking the urine-stained streets of New York in a maxi that length):
Her re-do of Fade’s Samsung dress…obviously an afterthought.
Char, meanwhile, paired a printed black and white bustier with a sculptural skirt in Radiant Orchid. I didn’t really get the pocket either. But the ladies do love their pockets, don’t they.
From afar, her re-do was pretty. But up close it seemed to have maternity gathering/kangaroo pouch.
Emily’s street style look was so Emily. I think it was successful, even if Heidi and Nina would only deign to wear it as pajamas:
Her re-do look….definitely half-assed. The judges said it looked like it wasn’t even her…which I have to agree. That print is amazing though. I may have to stalk the aisles of Mood to secure some for next Spring’s sewing projects…
The judges loved Sean’s street style look, this white structured blouse and skirt with cut-outs and shaping. I thought it was interesting how his inspiration — a man wearing an all-white tunic and loose pants outfit — translated into this unique look. I wouldn’t wear it, but if I saw someone pass me by wearing this in Soho, I would assume she worked in fashion. That’s usually the measure of a winning Project Runway look.
Meanwhile his re-do….what could we expect when he had to refashion Sandhya’s hideous kiddie jumpsuit? That color…more fringe. Ugh. Moving on.
Kini was the one designer who whole-assed the re-do challenge, turning Mitchell’s failed red carpet look into this stunning gown:
Good evening, dear ones! Tonight, I have two fun things to share: a new shirtdress and a long promised announcement. I know, you can hardly contain your excitement, right? My announcement is just so mysterious. Yeah, I’m rolling my eyes, too. Let’…read more
My new book has been out for a couple weeks now and I’ve been wanting to show you some of the designs! Here I am wearing the Wrap Dress, a simple short-sleeve dress with a narrow shawl collar, gathers on the shoulders, and a gathered skirt. In the…read more
Just before we flew home from our trip down under, we got to meet sewing BFF Veronica Darling and her family for brunch next to the Yarra River. At a quaint cafe called Pony. The weather was wonderful and we had such a … Continue reading →read more
Hey, remember my lingerie pattern for Butterick? B6031 is a collection with patterns for a slip, cami, and panties.I discovered last weekend that it’s also shockingly easy to convert the slip/cami pattern into a bralette. This is a cute little piece fo…read more
As mentioned, I am working on my standard flat pattern adjustments for the Ralph Rucci Coat, Vogue 1419 to begin my musiln of the pattern. I have completed a Broad Back Adjustment, and now I will be adding an adjustment for walking ease. Q: W…read more
This Pattern Hack is a follow up to my post on Lace Edging for Lingerie. I like to use scalloped lace instead of a twin stitched hem on my Lola’s because it helps to reduce panty lines and is just plain pretty! Here is the way I trim my Lola’s wi…read more
To start my muslin for the Ralph Rucci Coat, Vogue 1419, I must start by implementing a few flat pattern adjustments that my figure requires in commercial patterns. First and foremost a Broad Back Adjustment. The coat pattern is rumored to ru…read more
I am lucky- I live in a place with amazing opportunities for fabric shopping. I recently visited the Pendleton Woolen Mill Store during their twice yearly fabric sale, and picked up some of their wool jacquard fabric. I dove right in and made this tote bag!I wanted to keep it simple- the fabric is so […]read more
Sabrina the (occasionally grumpy) dressmaker’s model had been in surprisingly good spirits for weeks, but those happy feelings were beginning to ebb somewhat. "For", she thought as Jorth dashed past her, "who couldn’t be full of felicitous bliss when wearing a dress as floral as this? However, would it be too much to ask for the darn skirt to be attached? Hmm, Msread more
This podcast episode is perfect timing to go along with my current obsession of sewing lingerie. And believe it or not, I didn’t even consciously plan the timing of my interview with Sarah! I can’t even think about admitting how much time I’ve spent on the internet looking at bras and panties made by others, […]read more
My nephew is about to turn one, and I can hardly believe it! He’s the sweetest, happiest little thing, and we all love him so dearly. For his upcoming birthday, I decided to sew another version of Kwik Sew 3730, this time as a button-down. He loves to …read more
In most of my patterns, I demonstrate how to finish lingerie hems with either a twin needle finish, or elastic finish using either picot or fold over elastic. Stretch lace trim is another great option for finishing leg openings. Stretch lace adds…read more
Here, against the picturesque backdrop of my neighbor’s collection of broken lawnmowers, is a navy ikat Emery Dress.My first Emery was a cute stripey one I made about a year ago when Christine first released the pattern. I really love it, but sadly the…read more
A slim fit wool skirt such as the Charlotte really begs to be lined. Adding a layer of smooth and slippery fabric makes a wool skirt more comfortable to wear (especially with tights) and extends the life of the garment. Sewing a lining is fairly simple, however, there’s another technique that serves the same purpose: underlining.
In general, underlining is used to stabilize fabric, addread more
The fit was a bit more challenging than the sewing process. This pattern only goes up to a Burda 52, measurements of 48-41-50.5 inches, which is actually pretty darn small in the realm of plus sizes. That’s about a 24 in terms of the American Big 4’s usual sizing. I started with a 50 at the bust, then graded down to a 46 at the waist, then back up to a 50 at the hips. The result is a mixed bag. I actually love the bodice fit, with its interesting pleats and faux wrap style. It ended fitting me really well, apart from a bit of extra blousing at the non-pleated side seam.
The skirt, on the other hand, is odd. What look like drag lines around the hips in some of these pictures are actually extra horizontal folds of fabric, caused by the dress’ middle being too long. Between the bottom of my rib cage and top of my thighs, there’s an extra two inches of fabric desperately trying to find a home. It lands like ruching throughout the waist and hips of the dress. What’s even weirder about this is that I’m pretty tall for a woman–5’8” without hairspray–so the proportions have to be based on someone much, much taller than average.
Lesson of the Day: fitting is complicated, because patterns are not drafted for individuals. Hardly anything is going to fit you out of the envelope and that’s okay. There are work-arounds for almost any problem! Were this post for any other reason, I would have hacked the dress in two, formed a waistband seam and front darts, then sewn it back together again. Since this is supposed to be an honest review of this pattern, however, I figured it was best to show you my end result without massive overhauling. Having extra room through the torso is probably going to be a common fitting issue with this one, unless you’re incredibly long waisted.
|Lapped zipper! Practically perfect pattern matching!|
October 1st — Tanya at Mrs. Hughes – the Printed Tunic
October 2nd — Laurence at Quirky Pretty Cute — the Loose Jacket
October 6th — Mary at Idle Fancy — the Faux Wrap Dress
October 7th — Mary at Young, Broke, and Fabulous – the Draped Dress
October 8th — Sophie Lee at Two Random Words — the Cape
October 9th — T at U & Mii — Contrast V Neck Dress