Tag Archive: bra

This was an easy sew

Reading the comments to my previous post was making me feel better: I’m not the only one making such a mistake. Thank you for taking the time to tell your mistake. Some of you said that reading my post made them feel better too and I can fully understand. In the online world we usually tend to show the successes and less the failures that are an inevitable part of sewing too. It’s something I do as well and I was in doubt about posting about the mistake and glad I did in the end. I was able to save the pants and will finish them this weekend, when my daughter is home again she can try it on to determine the length of elastic in the waist.

In the meantime I needed something to cleanse the palate, so I made a bra from one of the sets of material I bought when I met up with Jane. I’ve used this lace before (in 2013, can’t believe it’s that long ago), but with black lycra. Now a full embroidered lace was available too and lace trim for the shoulderstraps. Makes it quite different. It’s a bit more transparant in real life, the photos were made with a black preformed cup underneath.

Really no surprises in sewing this time.It went smoothly.

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This was an easy sew

Reading the comments to my previous post was making me feel better: I’m not the only one making such a mistake. Thank you for taking the time to tell your mistake. Some of you said that reading my post made them feel better too and I can fully understand. In the online world we usually tend to show the successes and less the failures that are an inevitable part of sewing too. It’s something I do as well and I was in doubt about posting about the mistake and glad I did in the end. I was able to save the pants and will finish them this weekend, when my daughter is home again she can try it on to determine the length of elastic in the waist.

In the meantime I needed something to cleanse the palate, so I made a bra from one of the sets of material I bought when I met up with Jane. I’ve used this lace before (in 2013, can’t believe it’s that long ago), but with black lycra. Now a full embroidered lace was available too and lace trim for the shoulderstraps. Makes it quite different. It’s a bit more transparant in real life, the photos were made with a black preformed cup underneath.

Really no surprises in sewing this time.It went smoothly.

P8110048P8110049P8110051P8110045

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Lace bra

It’s been a while since I made a bra and it is more than time to make a few new sets. This is my first bra of what I hope will be at least 3 new sets in the next few weeks. It still lacks a bow as I’ve forgotten to take one with me (being abroad for the moment on a lovely holiday). But I’m ever so happy that the fit is very good, as I’ve been struggling with that recently.
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It’s made of lace which I underlined with a tule to give it the strength I need. Only the plain part of the band you see is stretching. It’s a kind of powernet.
The pattern is a copy from a rtw bra with adaptions, as I was not happy with the fit of that one any more either.
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The inside. I hope you can see that there are two layers of fabric in the cups too. The tule that I used for the bridge and side of the cup is more sturdy and more white than the other fabrics. It doesn’t worry me as it does not show from the right side.
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I tried something new with construction and used Vliesofix (similar or the same as bondaweb?) to bond the lace and tule together. I’ve very often used two layers of fabric, using different ways to keep them together but this worked so easy. The two layers could very easily be treated as one during sewing. It’s not visible at all. 
I’m expecting the glue in between will dissolve after a while, which is fine I think, as this is not where the strength comes from.
Parting shot of a view we had during one of our walks. It’s not sewing that is the main activity of this holiday (which is almost over, a few more days).
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Completed: Lemon Print Watson Bra

Gah, I love fruit-themed novelty prints, especially when they are in a fruit that I actually like to eat (as I’ve mentioned before: pineapples, yes, cherries, not really. ha). Lemons have always been one of those things that I always gravitate toward – both in my palate (if it includes lemon – whether it’s a […]

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That matching bra

And this is the bra I made to match those experimental panties-with-straps. I used my tried-and-tested racerback design but I did make some changes: I used the higher shape for the band, the one which is adjusted to the shape of the underwires. I …

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Plus size bra-making… an odyssey!

Once upon a time, a wise woman said “sure I can make clothes, but there’s no way I can make a bra. I’m a 38 H for pete’s sake!”. Any guesses? Yes, that wise woman was me. I’m not sure why after 6 years of sewing and quitting my day job to focus on it {…Continue Reading}

The post Plus size bra-making… an odyssey! appeared first on Cashmerette.

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A week of finishing ufo’s

In the last few days I’ve been finishing 3 projects. All started in 2016 and still lingering around for one reason or another.
The first one to show here is a lace bra. My lingerie drawer has been in need for new items for quite a while now and I’ve been trying to get my bra pattern right again. I had a problem with fitting and just couldn’t get it right (obviously my body changed a bit). When I read the blog post How to add volume to your bra cup by Norma Loehr from Orange Lingerie it dawned on me that this could be the answer to the problem. And its was. I had been making my upper cup longer but what I needed more was some extra room in the cup itself.
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I’m ever so pleased that the lace in this bra is quite symmetrical, except for the center front (bridge). I did not want to insert a seam there with this lace.
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The only reason this bra was unfinished for several weeks was the fact that I missed the right colour shoulder strap. Basically it’s a staple colour, but I am short on a few supplies. Around the Christmas period I didn’t get around to going to the shop in Amsterdam and at the beginning of this week I just ordered a few meters of several off-white variations online at Lijfgoed (a Dutch shop, no English text).
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Edit to add the pattern name: it’s the Marlborough bra from Orange Lingerie.

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lingerie, bras and shapewear

Last weekend, I spent a couple of hours asking the same question on three different Facebook groups of which I am a member (We Sew Retro Sew & Tell, Learn how to make Corsets like a pro and a Dutch group about corset making, to be precise). I got a…

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Completed: Marlborough Bras

Happy Monday, everyone! Let me help you kick-start your afternoon with some underwear photos😛 I made these Marlborough bras a couple of months ago. Nope, I haven’t branched out to new bra patterns yet; this particular pattern suits me just fine! I love the way it fits and I’m happy with the shape it gives […]

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Free Sewing Pattern – Bralette perfect undergarment for summer

Free Sewing Pattern – Bralette perfect undergarment for summer

Basic Skills Necessary: Basic sewing Pattern Description: It is warm –so warm that the heat sometimes almost knocks the wind out me. I am blaming my bra for it. I want to burn my bra! It is the right fit, but it is so hot here and I feel I should be walking around in […]

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Completed: Yellow Lace Marlborough Bra

Still playing catch-up with old makes here! This bra was finished over a month ago, just before my family took our annual family vacation (we went to Charlestown instead of Florida this year! It was awesome, even if it did rain the entire weekend we were there, ha). I am one of those people who […]

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Completed: Yellow Lace Marlborough Bra

Still playing catch-up with old makes here! This bra was finished over a month ago, just before my family took our annual family vacation (we went to Charlestown instead of Florida this year! It was awesome, even if it did rain the entire weekend we were there, ha). I am one of those people who […]

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Finished bra

A nice finish is in the details.
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Can you see the dart in the band? Probably because you know it’s there.
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The pattern is the Isabelle from Sewy again, using a non-elastic lace (last time I used a lace with some stretch). Because of the non-eIastic lace I added a little to the upper cup pattern piece and even made a left and right pattern piece because of a small size difference. This is not really an issue when I use lace with some stretch, but in non stretch lace it’s obvious, resulting in a little ‘overflowing”. You get my drift I presume. It’s a problem I have with a couple of previously made bras too, so obviously something has changed and I have to adapt my patterns.
This bra is wearable, but I want to make it again with a few changes as I’m not completely satisfied. The added space is not quite enough and I think it would be good if the center front is a bit higher. I bought a couple of different wire sizes to experiment with. Difficult to show as for obvious reasons I don’t want to share pictures of the fitting issues on the blog.
A project for the near future, first a couple of other projects to finish.

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Scallop edge–applying elastic

In my previous post I showed you how I used a tiny dart to get the scallop edge of lace to match the underband of the bra. Or at least, the main center part of it.

This means that elastic can’t be used as you would normally do, as now you can’t turn the elastic under the edge of the lace.

A picture of how it looks when finished:

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First the elastic is attached to one side panel, the length of the center part is left open and the elastic attached to the other side panel. When turned the elastic is only topstitched at the center front.

The steps in pictures:

The side panel is attached to the front, making sure there’s space for the elastic to attach.

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The inside, the lace panel is underlined with non-stretch tule. The side panel is a double layer. The tule used has some stretch. I use this because my lycra has a lot of stretch and does not give enough support when used as a single layer.

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The picot elastic is attached with a zigzag stitch, meeting the edge with the lace exactly.

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Measure the length of elastic you need for the center panel and mark the center front and end with a pin. (I used to take off 15-20% of the length of the pattern piece, but nowadays I just stretch the elastic and eyeball it)

Attach the elastic to the other side panel, take care not to turn it over in the center.

Turn the elastic, pin the elastic to the center front, just hiding the picot edge under the lace and topstitch with (triple) zigzag. In this case I would really prefer the triple zigzag as it’s wider and covering more of the width of the elastic. The result is as shown in the first picture. Below you can see that the center front elastic is only sewn with the triple zigzag.

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A very tiny dart

 

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One of the projects I’m working on is a new lingerie set. I wanted the scallop edge of the lace on the bottom edge. However, the bottom edge of the pattern is curved. I have posted how I do this before, but it’s many years ago (blogging for over nine years now!). So not too bad to post about it again.

This is the pattern piece, including seam allowances (a bit irregular as I traced this on sturdier paper for the pictures).

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If you want to use the scallop edge at the bottom, the seam allowance must be removed.

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Position the center front where you want it. I always use a deep point of the scallop. Also keep in mind how the center front will look like when sewn together. At the center it’s deciding where to have a little extra, imagine a straight line till the bottom of the curve of the pattern.

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I clip the pattern to the edge and leave just a hinge. The right part is then moved down to meet the scallop edge, creating a tiny dart. That dart is marked and sewn, resulting in what you see in the first picture. After the cups and channelling are inserted, the dart will hardly be visible.

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In another post: how to add the elastic to the bottom edge when using this construction.

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In Progress: Silk Polka Dot Boylston Bra

Hey everyone! I’m back with another bra post… again! This time, I’m trying something a little different though – I have made this bra *entirely* on my Spiegel 60609 machine. If you’ve followed my past bra posts, you will know how much I love using my old standby Bernina 350 for assembling lingerie, especially since […]

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Completed: Marlborough Bras for Spring (also some life-y updates, yay)

I say this every time I post about this subject, but I love making bras. Hell, I really love not having to buy bras. I just realized the last bra I actually purchased was when I was in London back in 2014. Pretty sweet! Anyway, I don’t have a new bra pattern to share or […]

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Completed: Black Lace Boylston Bra

Ooh la la, y’all! Hands down, this is definitely the sexiest bra I have ever made. Although, to be fair, it’s kind of hard to steer away from sexy anything if it involves black lace amirite. It’s been a couple of months since I made this thing, which means I am going to have to […]

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Sewy Isabelle

I apologize if the pictures are not lined properly in this post. I always used LiveWriter for my blog posts but that doesn’t seem to work since I migrated to Windows 10 and I don’t want to take the time to try to find out what is wrong.Furthermore I le…

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Sewy Isabelle

I apologize if the pictures are not lined properly in this post. I always used LiveWriter for my blog posts but that doesn’t seem to work since I migrated to Windows 10 and I don’t want to take the time to try to find out what is wrong.Furthermore I le…

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Inside / outside

I love it when a garment is as neat on the inside as it is on the outside.
Case in point: the bra I’m making. I’m trying a new pattern, the Sewy Isabelle that was so very kindly gifted to  me by a blog reader. Thank you again Gina!

I can’t tell you nothing about the fit right now. As those of you who made bras know you can’t judge the fit of a bra untill it’s as good as finished. As it’s a weekend with a lot of rain here, so perfect sewing weather, I hope to finish it tomorrow.

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Coral Lace Watson Bra (+ upcoming workshops!)

Coming back after a hiatus – even if it’s a mere 2 weeks – always feels a little awkward writing that first sentence. I have missed you guys, though! Thank you so much for all your thoughtful comments + general encouragement on my last post – I appreciate every single one of you! ♥ Before […]

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Much better!

Another attempt at making a soft bra… This time, I used my own pattern. The bra sloper I drafted a couple of years ago is for a full cup, underwired bra with a vertical seam. So far, I have always used it to make underwired bras, usually with a horiz…

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My Sierra bra…

Today, I was feeling a bit under the weather which, for some reason meant I got to take some time out of a normal day and sew. Sew something simple.And because I was thinking about experimenting with new bra styles anyway, I went back to those fre…

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Completed: Blue Lace Watson Bra

I’ve almost got my lingerie drawer in it’s happy place. Almost. Just a couple more bras on my list and then we are good! I REALLY like these Watson soft bras! I think they are so pretty, and also oh-so-comfy. I’m not the sort of person who really finds bras uncomfortable – even underwired bras […]

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Bramaking: Tips & Tricks I’ve Learned Along the Way

Since I started my bra making adventure nearly a year ago (woah, has it really been that long??), I’ve picked up a few tips along the way, as well as figured out a handful of shortcuts myself. This post has been a long time coming, and I’m not really sure why it’s taken me ages […]

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Completed: Boylston Bras; Take 2 & 3

More bras this week! Yay! Starting with the prettier one, even though I actually made it second. For both of these bras, I used the Boylston Bra pattern. Guys, I really really love this pattern. I love how it comes together, I love the pretty details (like the fabric strap!), I love that the fabric […]

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Completed: Silk Leopard Print Boylston Bra

Man, I am SO far behind in terms of what I made vs actually posting it. This is from 2 weeks ago. Ain’t mad about it! The pattern here is the Boylston bra, which is the newest pattern from Orange Lingerie. I think I mentioned this before, but I’ve been waiting for a hot minute […]

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Blue Lace Watson

Garment Details Pattern | Watson Bra Lace | Lace Fabrics Etsy Bra Findings | Blackbird Fabrics Bra Strapping | Blackbird Fabrics A few weeks ago it was boiling hot outside and I was trying to figure out what to wear to … Continue reading

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A new bra

bra front

It turned out to be very difficult to make good photos of this bra. These are the best shots I madebra side detail

The seam in the lace is hardly visible, don’t you agree?

bra shoulderstrap

I like the result but it was a pita to use this lycra for the bra. In my previous set I used a lycra with less stretch for the bra and this lycra only for the accompanying panties. Should have done that here as well. This lycra is thin and very stretchy. Add to that I had not the usual stable fabric I use to interface the under/side cup and used “old fashioned” tulle and there’s a recipe for difficulties during construction. Wearable, but a few pleats that I’d rather not have when this is on my body.

One panty to finish and then this set is ready.

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