Tag Archive: Burda

Monday Morning Inspiration/Pants, Pants, and Pants

Good Morning!!! Oh my, I have been missing in action. Last Wednesday, I was up early so I could head to Fredericksburg, Virginia to teach at the Original Sewing and Quilt Expo. I had such a wonderful time. Met lots of wonderful, enthusiastic ladie…

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White After Labor Day

When I was growing up, wearing white after Labor day was one of the biggest fashion faux pas.  These days people are wearing whatever anytime of year.    Fashion is anything at anytime of year!  Believe it or not, I’m still a little…

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Another Burda pattern–dress from the January 2017 issue

Most of you who have been reading my blog for a long time know that sometimes I get so enthousiastic about a pattern that I want to sew it immediately and often do that as well. This dress was in the enthousiastic category, but was not made immediately.

The main attraction for me was in the upper part of the dress. What a lovely neckline and raglan sleeves are something different too. As stated earlier, when I showed the first in progress photos, pleats on the hips and a point emphasizing that part on the back are not for me.

These are pictures from the BurdaStyle website.

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I made my version in a fabric with a stretch very similar to a ponte knit. I bought it at the Utrecht fabric market. Two friends bought exactly the same fabric, I’m looking forward to see their versions. Very difficult to make good pictures, the colours are black and very dark navy. The sun made these photos brighter.

The fit is not too bad, as always the wrinkles are showing more when you’re standing still and in real life it doesn’t look that bad. I lengthened the body a bit too much this time, the waistline could be slightly higher and the back a bit narrower. Note to self: next time draft it from my sloper. Sometimes it’s just easy to trace a pattern ;).

I want to wear it with a small belt, but have none in my possession that suited this dress.

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In the back I opted for a zipper that doesn’t go to the neckline completely. Not necessary to get my head into it and at the same time making the step of sewing it accurately so that there’s no unevenness at the end of the zipper unneccessary. I need the zipper for the waist.

I changed the pattern and construction of the neckline facing. For those interested, these are my changes.

I made a neckline facing for the back and sleeve togehter. There’s a little extra fabric as the sleeve parts do not exactly match, but I considered it not enough to add a dart.

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For the front I made a separate facing too. Sewed the facing to the front first and then sewn both the sleeve and the back facing in one pass. I hope you can see it in the next photo, it’s very hard to explain and photograph. The bottom layer is the back with the sleeve attached, then you see the front (with facing side up) and on top is the back neck facing. After you turn this it has a nice and crisp corner. No fiddling with points to clip in.

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To conclude the skirt part. For this I used my skirt block, but any pencil skirt pattern that fits would do. Usually you will have one dart in the front and in the back pattern (I use two but that’s not too important here). I moved the darts so that they started at the same point from center front and back as the top of the dress. Then I just cut down to make a seam in the same line as the princess seam from the top and made sure the waistlines matched. I could have sewn the dart only, that’s just a design option/choice.

Describing all this makes it seem like a lot of work, but it’s not that complicated. It’s a dress I will wear a lot this winter.

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A blouse with dots

I showed pictures of my work in progress last week. All three projects are finished, my daughters dress has already left the house (in the form of her wearing it before I had a chance to take photos).

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Let’s focus on the blouse for this post. It’s a nice pattern, Burda 6632. To my surprise it was very long and very wide, I took off a bit while normally I have to add length. I didn’t change the length of the sleeves either.

A more major change was made to the placket. The pattern has only buttons as decoration element, they’re not functional and there’s a seam at center front, no overlap. I wanted to have a placket which overlaps and using buttonholes. Not very difficult, but somehow it took me a while to grasp what and where I had to change.

The fabric was, as I said already, very difficult to work with and I used starch to keep it from slipping away continuously. I was asked what I use and it’s a spray starch that’s sold here in the supermarket. On the bottle it says it’s to make ironing easier and giving it a bit more stability (the starch). For me this little amount of starch was enough to help me in construction.

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The photos of me wearing the blouse. As so often, Burda’s neckline is deep, this blouse requires a camisole.

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Stepping Out

While neutrals are decidedly within my comfort zone, bold, stand out colours are most certainly not!  However.  After making the gold and black Anza Dress last month, I had a bit of the fabric left over.  The lady I made the dress for didn’t want the remains for herself, so it went into the stash. … Continue reading “Stepping Out”

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It’s not August yet…

and I finished my first dress from the August issue of Burda.

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I’m quite happy with how this dress fits and how it looks on me. The most visible change to the pattern is the neckline. The original neckline was very high and it felt like it was choking me. I didn’t want to disturb the pleat and widened it just a bit but went 4-5 cm down in center front.

I did a few pattern and construction alterations and will write a separate post on that later this week.

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Starting to sew from August Burda

I didn’t keep to my pledge of sewing something from a (new) Burda magazine each month. There were two skirts I forgot to blog about, but even if I count these, there are no 6 or 7 garments from Burda magazines sewn by me this year . The August issue could change the numbers. It’s a great issue with quite a few patterns I’d like to make. After seeing previews and especially after seeing some pictures shared by a friend with a subscription, I stalked the newsagent for this issue. It started with a little disappointment that the jacket I like so much is in the petite size range. Perhaps I will draft the details in my jacket pattern at some point, but not now. I have a nice event to go to next week and thought it might be nice to sew a new dress for the occasion.

This is the pattern I’m using, number 119:

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Not a very straightforward dress to sew. After tracing the pattern pieces the first thing I did was trying to “assemble” the paper pieces, based on the instructions and common sewing sense. That is necessary with Burda, their instructions are not always clear. Something is lost in translation probably (I have the Dutch issue, the original is German).

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There were two things I changed to the pattern:

  • the length of the bodice (common alteration for me) which was less difficult than it may seem from the line drawing
  • the waist piece. That has a seam at the bottom that is showing easily. In the magazine picture the serged seam is peeking out. I moved the seam to the center back of the waist piece. Easy change and I think it looks better the upper ander under side of that piece both have a folded edge.
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I think I got how this is intended to be sewn and am ready to cut it.

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The pattern calls for 1.95 meter of fabric, the length of my fabric is only 1.80 and it works, It’s probably a bit wider than the fabric Burda used.

Hope this dress works well, I’ve been in doubt of posting this already, but it’s a sewing journey and sometimes it works, sometimes not.

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Peasant Blouse (Burda)

Good grief, that’s such a not-inspired title…. So let’s cut to the chase and get on with the sewing. I actually, really and truly, bought a peasant blouse top from a real live shop and loved its gathers, floatiness and … Continue reading

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Birds for the Summer

So, this post should have gone live last week, but it seems I’m unable to use the scheduling tool properly…. It’s another make for daughter No 2 to take to Madeira.  The pattern is Burdastyle, #106 from May 2012 (unfortunately not available as a download on the website).  She’d put this pattern on her list … Continue reading “Birds for the Summer”

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Batteries not included…

My little big world of sewing blogs is gradually shrinking: and I am wholly admitting my contribution in that reduction. I cannot deny it…. I have been sewing but not photographing, posing nor posting. Life, life, stuff, more stuff, technical … Continue reading

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Hook, Line & Sinker

I’ve really fallen for this pattern.  It’s been made in three different fabrics so far and I love each & every (very different) one.  The pattern is  culottes 104 from the February 2017 Burdastyle magazine.  Made late last month for Daughter No2 to take on her holiday to Madeira, she chose a linen viscose blend … Continue reading “Hook, Line & Sinker”

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Thrifty Thursday Ideas

I had such a lovely day yesterday. So many took the time to congratulate me on a great presidency with the American Opera Society of Chicago, and voiced that they were sad to see me step down. Really nice. Good for the soul 🙂 Some asked what I wo…

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Silver Dream

It’s good to be pushed out of your comfort zone sometimes.  I joined in with a Facebook Group sew-along that started in January where the challenge was to make 8 items using patterns already in your stash.  The idea, to look again at what you had bought and never got round to using.  Those poor … Continue reading “Silver Dream”

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An Exercise in Refashioning

I have a bag of items to be re-cut -remade.  Why?  Well, some items don’t fit anymore, some items we don’t wear (either because we don’t like them anymore or because there isn’t a need for them) anymore.  Clothes are like buildings, they need a purpose, and if the original purpose is no longer viable, … Continue reading “An Exercise in Refashioning”

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Sloper Series – How to Start

Ever look at a pattern and think, “I wish that came in my size!”? Or maybe you’ve made several muslins of a pattern only to find it still doesn’t work for your body? Want to design your own patterns? These are all situations where using a sloper could be the answer to achieving a better fit with less frustration! Today,…

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Super 130s Classic Pants

I’m beyond thrilled with the outcome from my second Couture Sewing School class. I’ve grappled with pants a few times since I started sewing, and whilst I managed to achieve a good crotch curve fit on my own, it was getting the legs right that really proved elusive. This was because of two ‘fitting’ reasons –  I have uber […]

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Couture Sewing School – Day 1 & 2: Fitting and Fabric

I ended up going in on the first day with two muslins – one made up of Burda 6689, and another that was a pattern mut of the Style Arc Darcy Pants (Legs of Darcy, Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo crotch curve, Colette Patterns’ waistband from their Clover pants, which I’ve previously made). I wore the […]

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Cashmere coat to start the sewing year, Burda 02/2010 #126

What a way to start off the sewing year, with cashmere! This fabric is so gorgeous, and while I typically don’t like neutrals this warm camel color just begs to be a coat. Or in this case – a vest. But for some reason I just can’t call this a vest, to …

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A top with lots of drape

Having done a proper review of this top, I almost forgot to post about it on the blog. Thanks Nancy for reminding me through your comment.

The top has a lot of drape and because of that I don’t know yet whether this will be a favorite or not. I’m used to more fitting clothes. Still I was attracted to this pattern and “had” to make it. It’s from the January 2017 issue of Burda.

Again I compared to my sloper but have to remember it’s different for knit fabrics. I could have used a size smaller. Being so wide it’s not a real problem.

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Burda 01-2017-119 Side

Burda 01-2017-119 Back

I found this fiddly to make with the double shoulder parts and the binding at the neckline. At the point where the shoulder pieces and neckline meet, there are a lot of fabric layers creating a bump.

With the experience I have now I would have done it differently and have made the back with a cut on facing. Also I would serge the shoulder pieces on the inside, thus eliminating another layer. Burda’s instructions tell you to fold the seams on the inside and then stitch.

A plus to this pattern was the added camisole. Burda realized this time that the neckline was too deep for being comfortable in day to day life and solved this by adding a pattern for a camisole. I made my own bias tape for the top from the same fabric and used a lingerie elastic at the bottom. Not an exact match in colour, but well, no one will see this.

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A final note on the fabric needed: the measurement given in the magazine is 2.2 meters, using a fabric that is 1.35 meter wide. This is not a normal width in most knit fabrics. My fabric was 1.6 meter wide and I could cut both the top and the camisole from only 1.7 meter of fabric.

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Sucker for Sales 2

And here we are again…… fabric sales purchases and what to do with them. This time it’s a fluffy, soft knit made with a remarkable combination of fibres such as cashmere, mohair, a bit of silk and a few sparkly … Continue reading

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Burda dress

Hope you all had a lovely Christmas if you celebrate it. If not hope you had a lovely weekend.

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I finished my dress before Christmas and wore it to the Christmas dinner with my family. It was a rather quick project. A friend mentioned a Downton Abbey vibe to it and though I can see it I think (hope) it’s a bit more modern.

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The pattern is from BurdaStyle January 2016, nr 117. Mine looks pretty much like the photo for once, as I made it from a dark navy fabric. Don’t remember where I bought it and think it’s a cotton/linen blend with perhaps some silk in it, as it has a lovely shine. A bit cool for a winter dress (I wore it with a shawl for dinner), but I found out that most fabrics in my fabric collection are not dress length, certainly not when the dress has a flared skirt and sleeves. And one of my goals for the next few months is also to use more of the fabrics I have. Not committing to anything, just thinking that as I have some really nice pieces it might be good to use them.

The sleeves are cut on the bias and are comfortable in wearing. I do remember reading somewhere that there might be a problem with sleeves cut on the bias, but for this fabric/pattern it was no problem. 

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The pleats are a separate pattern piece that is cut off-grain. This helps the pleats to curve around the body.

All I changed to the pattern was adding 7-8 centimeters to the center front and adding 3 cm to the length of the bodice, which is what I usually do with Burda patterns. I checked the pattern pieces to my sloper and it was quite close to that.

Two pictures of me wearing the dress. These were intended as trial ones but the camera battery went down and I don’t feel like doing it again later.

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A few dressform pictures of details.

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Have a lovely new year’s evening all and a joyful start in the new year. Till next year!

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Burda challenge – organizing

Planning to do the one Burda pattern a month challenge has already resulted in a garment and some organizing. I made a dress from the January 2016 issue for which only the hemming still needs to be done. Should manage that before Christmas, don’t you t…

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A challenge without rules and a pattern tracing tip

On Pattern Review there’s a thread with a challenge to use your (Burda) magazines more. In 2017 this challenge is held for the 3rd time and this time I will try it too. Especially as there are no fixed rules. Some want to make a garment from each issue that will be published next year, some want to make 6 garments, some using older issues as well. It’s your own challenge. I’m in the last group. I have so many issues of pattern magazines, not only Burda. Many patterns marked to make some day, but you all know what happens.

Even though I make more of my own patterns now, it’s still nice to have a pattern as a starting point sometimes, or even just use a pattern. Therefor I will try to make at least 12 garments next year using Burda patterns, either from 2017 issues or older issues I have. I made a good start by tracing and cutting a dress today. Whether it’s finished before Christmas remains to be seen.

Have you ever tried Burda magazine patterns? Here’s a tip for those of you who find the pattern sheets intimidating and have difficulty to find the pieces in all the lines.

First you start with the sheet (A, B, C etc) you need and find out what color lines you have to trace. This information you can find with the pattern instructions in the center of the magazine.

The numbers are not only printed next to a line of the pattern piece, but also in the margin of the sheet. The easiest way to find a pattern piece that isn’t too obvious is locate the number in the margin, in the color you need, and trace a (mental) line perpendicular to that number over the sheet. Somewhere along that line will be the pattern piece number you are looking for. Sometimes it’s close to the number in the margin, sometimes on the other side of the sheet, but always in a straight line from the number in the margin.

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A challenge without rules and a pattern tracing tip

On Pattern Review there’s a thread with a challenge to use your (Burda) magazines more. In 2017 this challenge is held for the 3rd time and this time I will try it too. Especially as there are no fixed rules. Some want to make a garment from each issue that will be published next year, some want to make 6 garments, some using older issues as well. It’s your own challenge. I’m in the last group. I have so many issues of pattern magazines, not only Burda. Many patterns marked to make some day, but you all know what happens.

Even though I make more of my own patterns now, it’s still nice to have a pattern as a starting point sometimes, or even just use a pattern. Therefor I will try to make at least 12 garments next year using Burda patterns, either from 2017 issues or older issues I have. I made a good start by tracing and cutting a dress today. Whether it’s finished before Christmas remains to be seen.

Have you ever tried Burda magazine patterns? Here’s a tip for those of you who find the pattern sheets intimidating and have difficulty to find the pieces in all the lines.

First you start with the sheet (A, B, C etc) you need and find out what color lines you have to trace. This information you can find with the pattern instructions in the center of the magazine.

The numbers are not only printed next to a line of the pattern piece, but also in the margin of the sheet. The easiest way to find a pattern piece that isn’t too obvious is locate the number in the margin, in the color you need, and trace a (mental) line perpendicular to that number over the sheet. Somewhere along that line will be the pattern piece number you are looking for. Sometimes it’s close to the number in the margin, sometimes on the other side of the sheet, but always in a straight line from the number in the margin.

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Treat Yourself Sales and Pretty Pictures To Inspire

While gift giving is fun, it’s also nice to treat ourselves to a little something that we might enjoy! This morning I received a message from Burda Style that everything in their store is 30% off with coupon code TREAT30. It’s a 3 day sale, so if …

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Medley of knit tops

For months and months I had a Burda PDF pattern hanging on the wall of my sewing room. I bought and downloaded the pattern on a whim ages ago. I even taped it together and added the seam allowances, then set it aside. A while ago I was trying to figure out how to deal with PDF pattern pieces, particularly these that consist of taped together paper. Folding them up is just not a good option since they take up so much space and get all crumpled. The best storage for me is to hang them up somewhere so I generally punch a hole through the stack, tie a ribbon there and then just stick them on a hanger. One day I was looking at the big sliding closet doors and thought “usable space” so I stitched up a big fabric rectangle, mounted it on those 3M removable hooks and now I have a great space to keep PDF patterns our of the way and still available, plus no wrinkles or curled paper. Its basically a big fabric bulletin board.

Thus this space is festooned with a constant rotation of patterns, yet this one t-shirt pattern sat there, unused and fading into the background. Then one day I was looking for something else and actually noticed it. Interesting! So here it is.  This fabric is dreamy… I got it at Stone Mountain this past summer. They might still have it and I had to restrain myself from getting all the color options.  

blue stripe Burda top 2

Here is the info from the Burda website. The pattern is Burda 02/2013 # 126, here’s the link to this short sleeve version, I took the photo from the long sleeve version as the model is wearing a jacket which obscures the cute sleeve detail.  Super cute, huh?  I love a t-shirt that has some interesting detail.

Burda T-shirt 02-2013-126

And you have seen me wearing this one – on my New York trip back in October.  At Eately, the great Italian food market and restaurants. I was thinking of them today as I spent the morning baking Panettone, theirs smelled delicious and I almost bought one when I was there.

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Actually before I made the blue stripe version I made a quick test version – as I had bought this fabric also at Stone Mountain. They now have all kinds of bargains upstairs so $ 3 per yard, I bought a bunch just for knit experimentation. Consequently I will have an array of this color in my upcoming wardrobe 😉.

green knit Burda top

More random knit tops, I had this fabric which I bought in SF at Fabric Outlet (which is the actual store which operates Cali Fabrics). It is almost a tissue weight knit. Maybe not really suitable for my usual stuff as it is really thin and I prefer a bit more heft in knits. But I wanted to try out this pattern in a knit fabric. Not sure it is successful but I will wear it around the house.  This is New Look 6374, my previous version was in silk.

knit tunic top

And then I still had more of this fabric so I tried out the Presto Popover top from Naughty Bobbin patterns (formerly Savage Coco) which was gifted to me a while back when I had the pleasure of meeting her in person. This is a good layering piece and I like a top to be really snug around the back of my neck (short hair – always chilled there) so I stitched the center front up as high as I could with still being able to pull it over my head. So now it has a bit of a keyhole effect and is a good layering piece under a fleece jacket or a sweater. As designed the sleeves were a bit long for my extra short arms but I like the effect so I just left them that way. Also after I saw this picture I decided to shorted the top a bit and I can’t remember if I lengthened it when I cut it out.

presto top

Onward to the next one, which is this color block top/dress pattern from Burda. I had the burgundy color sweater knit leftover from this top. I bought this Burda pattern thinking I can use it for refashioning some old cashmere sweaters.
Burda maroon color block top

Burda 6851 Pattern envelope

The pattern envelope – it does have potential. You can see I used only two colors instead of 3 as they show. Also I put a t-shirt style binding on the neckline, in the pattern envelope they have it as a faced neckline. The grey fabric is a knit I bought at Joanns, surprisingly nice. I actually like the fit better of a different Burda raglan t-shirt pattern that I have, which I have made a number of times. (here and here.

color block knit top on

Don’t let that hazy sunshine fool you – we are having rain, YAY!  and it is such a treat.
I had a small piece of fabric remaining, so I made a scrunchy turtleneck accessory which I can wear with this top – very handy.

Burda knit top with turtleneck

And just one more knit, this one is a pattern mashup. The same knit fabric as the first one in a different color way. I think there is a pink also – I might need that. Anyway – the body of this top is McCalls 7046 which is a surprisingly well fitting t-shirt, with or without the side gathers. But I included it because it is kind of interesting. Although I have realized that this type of shirt needs to be close fitting around the waist/hips or it just looks sloppy. And then the cowl neckline is a slightly reduced version of the Sewaholic Renfrew neck grafted onto this McCalls top.

green stripe knit top

I did make another version of this frankenpattern last year from a very cosy knit and I wear it a lot.
Here’s the previous version of this top, sewn about 1 year ago.  I love to do the stripe matching on these t-shirts. Hey everyone needs a hobby!

Pink striped top

Ok that’s the latest on knit top sewing, next up I might sew up a shirt from one fabrics I bought in NY.

Last year at the very end of winter I finished this Burda shawl collar jacket and posted one quick look at me wearing it – well I wanted to say that I wear this jacket ALL the time. It is so cosy and warm.

plum coat

Plus this jacket has one of my favorite features, in the seam buttonholes. Something about that always appeals to me. In fact – my current project has that very feature. Stay tuned 🙂

Up next – the project that is in the works, and a crack at some of those fabrics from NY. And a good amount of holiday baking. As mentioned above, today I made my first panettone. Which was surprisingly good. A few more practice rounds and I think it will be great. If I do say so myself!

Happy holiday sewing,
Beth

and in the garden, my latest obsession. Succulents. Which are perfect for our climate and super interesting once you start to dive into all the info available. More to come of these.

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Burda 8/2016 # 124B in green plaid – bring on the holidays

Sometimes I get on a kick for sewing or wearing a particular color. While I have made the typical number of aqua, turquoise or blue items I have been favoring the color green this year. Of course if I make a coat in a specific color then I’m off and ru…

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Faux leather Burda style dress #129 2/2015

I don`t know why I don`t sew more of the Burda Style patterns. I don`t really hate tracing the patterns and I have a SA ruller ( actually two ; one in 3/8″ and one 5/8″) that makes adding seam allowances really easy and I do have a subscripti…

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Burda 6874–Shirt for my son

It’s taken longer then I intended as the coat project came in between. It’s done though and I finished my first men’s shirt. It wasn’t complicated, just a bit different on some places. I’m not completely satisfied with the collar with stand, even after I took off the first stand and re-did it. It’s not visible in the pictures but it could be better.

The pattern is wonderful, everything matches perfectly and the size (taken from neckline measurement) is quite good. It’s what I expect from Burda and they do not disappoint.

I don’t have pictures of my son wearing the shirt. In the meantime he has found a job and having photos taken with his mother’s shirt is not a priority (which I understand).
There is some work to be done on the fit in the shoulder area. Something in the line of forward shoulder adjustment. But my son is satisfied with this first one and there will be more to follow.

I highly recommend Pam Erny’s tutorial for the sleeve placket, she explains it so clearly: Shirt sleeve placket. Her way makes it easy to use another fabric for the under placket and is beautifully finished on the inside too.
For chevron stripes this one is superb.

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Definitely oversized on my dressform:

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I had to use white as accent colour. The original fabric yardage would have suited for a shirt for me, but was not enough for this shirt.

To finish this blog post: my coat sewing is continuing. I was so inspired I started another one last week. A sneak peak…

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Burda 6782 jacket with boucle from Mood

Here is something that took me quite a while to finish, and yet once it was finally basted together for final stitching I did breathe a sigh of relief, and appreciate this lovely fabric. My pal Heather bought this fabric at Mood during her summer 2015 trip to NY, where she did some solo shopping and came back with quite a few goodies. Some of which are still in my stack of “to do”. In this case, she was quite willing to wait until my inspiration developed, although this one did say jacket when I pulled it out of the box. It said jacket – but I screamed, “Stripes!”
OK – just between us sewing types, you know the feeling, when you are confronted with the fabric and kind of wish it was anything else. Like a nice, simple solid color! or random pattern that needs no special treatment! Of the various fabrics she bought on that trip (which includes some luscious silks waiting to be turned into a summer maxi) 3 of 6 were striped, or panels that need careful cutting.
Oh well – text and FaceTime long distance shopping only goes so far.

Enough about that. Like I said, she was in no hurry so slow and steady were the order of the day.

boucle suit jacket front

I have never sewn with a genuine Linton tweed but seen some samples that a friend ordered, and this very much reminded me of those. It is very loosely woven, actually a bit delicate, and the grayish stripes seem like satin ribbon or some kind of shimmery fiber. We had enough yardage to make a jacket and then a skirt but she is not really a skirt wearer – she prefers dresses so I suggested a jacket and then a dress with the boucle for the skirt and then a solid color on top.
I had very little hope of finding something suitable and figured that might be tricky, but I walked into Stone Mountain Fabrics in Berkeley with my boucle swatch and they had a shelf of wool double knits – so this coral pick color was an absolutely perfect match and weight. Lucky score – or lucky me to have such a great fabric store so nearby.

Here’s the one and only pic I took of Heather when she came to pick up this outfit. It was one of our 100˚ + days in August and even with the AC on it was Hot! so just a quick barefoot pic 🙂

boucle suit on H

Here is the pattern I used for the jacket. I really liked this pattern as it combined some of the look of traditional jacket but has some nice features that make it work for a plus or full busted figure. Not sure if you can see it in the tech drawing but it has a princess seam down the front, and then a regular bust dart. I also like the open V neckline. The other version with the attached collar/lapel is also nice – might have to try that one now that I have all the fit changes worked out. And in a solid color!

Burda 6782 pattern image

Because whew – the fitting was a bit tricky – in a solid you can do a little cheating with fit adjustments with with a horizontal stripe like this any change needs to be very exact and then also be accommodated to keep the stripes level and matching.

boucle suit back view

Here’s the dress, I only have this view on the dress form which is not really how it looks on, the fact that the top portion is a knit means that it fits very closely yet has plenty of ease. This wool double-knit is like a very thick ponte – I love this fabric and would use it again. Not that it is probably a lot warmer to wear than a rayon ponte – so keep that in mind if you try it.

boucle dress only
How about some sewing? Oh and by the way – this boucle is completely fused – every piece – with Pro-Weft Supreme lightweight woven fusible (this one). Why? because I started with the jacket front, and had the jacket front stabilized with silk organza, and the edges taped. Then I put it on the dress form and it was just so limp. And with this open weave I didn’t think it would survive much wearing. So I did some testing and liked the texture and drape with the fusible. Particularly for the skirt pieces it seemed that they would need more than just lining, so fusible comes to the rescue.

Starting boucle jacket

After that little hiccup I moved on to more fitting. As usual, making the sleeve for a jacket where I have sliced and diced and adjusted the pattern a lot is then a bit tricky. I did use my trick of making a muslin test sleeve, fitting that into the real jacket, getting it to feel and fit just right and then cutting it out last. I even went so far as to mark the horizontal lines on the muslin so I could then place the pattern pieces on the boucle and have the sleeves match. Ok time to admit – this project was kind of agonizing.
See all those various colors of basting thread holding the sleeve in – those are my various tests on the armhole – which changed shape a bit as things went along. And on my desk I have a lot of scribbly notes such as ” left sleeve use pink thread baste, move shoulder in 1/4″, sew at 3/4″ not 5/8″ which I write down in the heat of the moment and then go back to later to try to decipher my own clues. And always resolve to be more methodical with my notes. And I never am! So far lucky…

sleeve fit testing

Check out that ravel-y fabric. Oh yes, this one wants to start disintegrating as soon as you touch it. But  once inside the lining it doesn’t matter so no seam finishes, just healthy seam allowances, pressed down and sometimes catch-stitched so they stay in place.

This is a really good view of the fabric and how loosely it is woven, it actually seems like a collection of ribbons woven together. And more of my thread traces to mark the hem edge. I had to bring out the neon green after I used all my other colors on various sections.

boucle suit hem thread trace

Here is the result of all that persnickety matching – I was so satisfied if I do say so myself! This is one of those fabrics where it doesn’t seem all that stripes – but if they weren’t lined up it would be so jarring and look off kilter. So I’m glad I took my time on this one.

stripe matching

The dress is a pattern I have used for Heather previously, it is a Bootstrap Fashion pattern that I ordered using her specific measurements, here’s the link to the specific one I used. I’ve used this pattern twice for her, changing out the sleeves and then omitting the peplum thing. In this version I also omitted the  waistband. With these patterns I’ve found the fit to definitely be in the ballpark. Depending on how much your figure is different from the standard on other sewing patterns (both in circumference and height) then these patterns are useful although not necessarily the answer to everything. I find they do have the right amount of ease (i.e. not too much) and the height measurements are amazingly good (length, where the bust and waist hit, etc) the fit in the bust can be problematic as you go up in size but the fit in the shoulders/neck is usually pretty good, so some more adjustment in the bust area seems like a reasonable thing to have to do for the rest of it to be more or less a good fit.

What else? We decided to omit the button for a variety of reasons. She said she never buttons a jacket closed, also I tested bound buttonholes on scraps and they were hideous – this fabric just didn’t want to form into buttonholes. Machine buttonholes I know wouldn’t work, this was too nubbly and thick to fit under my attachment. So whew – she didn’t want them anyway 🙂

I made a three piece sleeve as I needed to do some fit adjustments and this was the best way to get the shaping needed. More stripe matching! Also in this view you can see the bust dart. I believe I added length to the front and enlarged the dart a bit, then adjusting the side panel and back to match. I like the way the dart is angled, it really gives nice shaping but isn’t an intrusive dart. What is an intrusive dart? one that I notice, like an arrow. I guess this is a style choice – there are a few indie patterns that I look at and all I can see is the dart placement (which looks wrong and too horizontal to me). So Burda seems to get this right pretty often. In fact I will say it again, for plus sizes I think Burda is such a winner – and with the envelope patterns or the downloadable pdfs I can find just about any style that I am looking for. boucle suit side view

Last look, the lining. I decided on a pale grey lining instead of a cream color. You know how an item with a white or light lining looks around the neckline after a few wearings – not my fav so a grey lining is a bit more practical. The bodice portion is lined in a coral pink.

boucle suit lining

So that’s the scoop on the epic boucle jacket project. I have sewn so many things since I finished this and need to get going on my blog backlog.

Life and travel keep getting in the way. Speaking of travel – did you see this Instagram post – read carefully 🙂 and maybe I will see you there! Hope so!

And I have even found my fall sewing mojo -despite our lingering summer weather. Sneak peek- I finished this to add to my ever growing stockpile of coats that I don’t need but sew anyway because I love to.  Blog post soon. And an interesting pattern journey that ended in a repeat.

green coat sneak peek

Happy “is it fall where you are?” sewing,
Beth

Today’s garden photo – oh it is at a low ebb around here, just dry and nothing blooming and leaves piling up. But this vine is a winner – I wish I had bought 3 when I found this at Home Depot a few years ago. Just keeps climbing the fence and blooming throughout the summer. Not flashy but dependable. Every garden needs lots of those.

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