Tag Archive: coats

My Stephen Burrow’s Inspired Coat

Thank you to everyone who sent notes yesterday. I’m so very happy that I once again received a great report. It seems that the moles have grown a little in size(width), but not in depth, and depth is what can mean cancer. So, I can still see, and you w…

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My Stephen Burrow’s Inspired Coat

Thank you to everyone who sent notes yesterday. I’m so very happy that I once again received a great report. It seems that the moles have grown a little in size(width), but not in depth, and depth is what can mean cancer. So, I can still see, and you w…

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Monday Morning Inspiration/Not Your Grandmother’s Fur

Monday is beginning on a rather gray note here in Chicago. Rain is supposed to move in. Gray days are great days to do a little cleaning, so always a silver lining 🙂 Last Saturday, I was so honored to be the guest speaker for the Chicago Are…

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Coat Month

So, I decided at the end of August that I needed to get making some coats before the weather turned.  Before it was cold enough to need one and it still wasn’t in a corporeal form…  This is in addition to still having numerous items yet unmade from Daughter No2’s summer list and thinking I … Continue reading “Coat Month”

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And The Eloflex Thread Winner Is??

As promised.., Today I’m announcing the winner of the Eloflex Thread drawing. And the winner is..,Everyone, thank you for participating.  The pleasure was all mine.  Imo Gene I hope you enjoy the thread.   Please send me an email in…

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A Furry Sneak Peek

I am so excited about having the opportunity to give a lecture on working with fur at the upcoming Original Sewing and Quilting Expo in Schaumburg, IL and Fredricksburg, VA!I’ll be showing a number of jackets and coats, but this one I am especially par…

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Fun With Fur and The Original Sewing and Quilting Expo

My first introduction to working with fur was when I attended fashion design school. I loved every moment of my fur classes. Since then, I am always on the look out for a fur that is in good shape and can be restyled. The piece below was purchased…

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Can a Jacket Cry?

I won’t include everyone, as I would like to believe that there’s someone out there who finishes every project that they begin. But, I think there are many of us that for whatever reason, have garments that languish unfinished, in a drawer, hanging in …

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Vogue V1537 Coat

This pattern is Vogue V1537, which is a coat and a dress.  It was released earlier this year, and as soon as I spotted the coat, I had to have it.  A half price pattern sale at Weaver Dee made it even nicer!    I’ve only seen o…

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Monday Morning Inspiration

It’s Monday, and it’s also the first day of the month. May 1st is my personal kickoff to spring, so this is a very happy day for me. We had SO much rain over the weekend. My garden is quite happy, weeds and flowers alike 😉 The blooms have finished on …

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Grainline Cascade Duffle, aka the Coat of My Dreams!

Ummmm, if you’re been around this blog at all before, you probably know that I loooooove coats. I love making them, I love wearing them, I love thinking about them! So it’s a little embarrassing to tell you that this coat has been in the works for nearly two years! Whoops! I took advantage of […]

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Le-Roy Weldon’s 8972 – Part 2 – The finished coat

Here’s my coat in all it’s loveliness!  Click here to read all the construction details.     Lining!Gorgeous elbow darts to shape the sleevePockets!  Now I want to make all the coats!!  I have been planning Butterick 4610 …

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Miss Bernadette Decks the Halls: Butterick 6244 and Cashmerette Turner Dress

Good evening, kittens! There’s time for one more 2016 blog post, right?
We originally had grand plans for tonight, but after two straight weeks of travel, decided to plant ourselves on the couch and watch college football instead. Sam is making steaks, I may whip up some brownies, and we’ll ring in the new year in my favorite way: clad in pajamas and drinking mimosas at home. I would make such a fabulous hermit, y’all. 
Despite my introverted inclinations, we did spend most of the holidays celebrating in style. Not only were there a million parties to attend in December, but our third anniversary fell right before Christmas. Usually, I make up one fabulous holiday dress, then wear it endlessly for a month. This year, I made a dress and a coat. It wasn’t overachieving, so much as self-preservation. We had a series of cold fronts, before Christmas, and I would’ve been a beautiful popsicle, without a festive coat to throw over my festive dress. 
No shivering under the mistletoe for me, this year!
Butterick 6244, the coat in this ensemble, is a pattern I’ve longed to make. It’s one of the new Lisette patterns for Butterick (she moved from Simplicity, last year) designed by Liesl Gibson, of Oliver + S fame. The pattern features two pieces: a simple princess-seamed dress and a drape front coat to pair with it. The dress is cute enough, but that coat! Be still my heart. Unlined, with that dramatic collar and flat-felled seams, it’s the elegant, but easy-to-sew outerwear of my dreams. 
Gorgeous versions of this coat first popped up, last winter. Lori, of Girls in the Garden, made an elegant camel version; Margot, of Creating in the Gap, made this glorious red one; and 
The Frougie Fashionista made a buffalo plaid iteration that I have coveted ever since. We had a remarkably mild winter, last year, and I never got around to cutting it out. This year, however, coats seemed like the smartest thing to sew. We had a cold snap early and those Arctic waves of weather keep on coming. I’m relishing them, if only for the opportunity to wear my favorite layers. 
For the fabric of this coat, I chose a dishy boiled wool from Mood Fabrics in cayenne red. This color is, sadly, no longer stocked on their site, but a dozen or so other colors are still available. Boiled wool is exactly what it sounds like–wool fabric that has been agitated in hot water, so that the fibers shrink up into a tighter, more felted fabric. It has a gloriously soft, nubby texture and a bit of springy stretch in one direction, thanks to this process. In addition to coats, I’ve had a couple of winter skirts made from boiled wool and they are such cozy layering pieces. It is one of my favorite fabrics to wear during colder months.
It’s also a bit strange to work with. Boiled wool is densely packed, but isn’t opaque. It’s super warm and a bit heavy, but also drapes beautifully. This is the first of two projects that I’m using boiled wool for, this season, and I’m treating it differently in each case. This fabric works brilliantly for unstructured, drapey pieces like this one, as it doesn’t unravel and has beautiful movement on its own. However,  if you add the right lining and understructure, it’s also a fantastic fabric for a more structured coat. It’s almost more chameleon than cloth.
The construction of this coat was about as easy as outerwear gets. There are two darts at the neckline, no lining to fuss with, and only five pieces in total. The instructions are pretty clear, with a lengthy explanation of flat-felled seams for beginners, and there’s a sew-along on the Lisette website for the entire pattern. Boiled wool doesn’t actually unravel, as mentioned above, so if you wanted to leave the drape unhemmed and the seams unfinished, this pattern would be easier. You’ll see unhemmed boiled wool in ready-to-wear all the time and it gives a bohemian, casual look to the finished garment. Despite my penchant for perfectionism, I almost did that myself. This wool looks seriously beautiful left on its own. 
In the end, though, I hemmed everything and finished all seams as instructed. The armscyes are the only seams left unfelled in the directions, which I kept out of pure laziness. The fabric is a little bulky for flat-felled seams, but it takes both pinning and pressing well, so it’s not too big of a challenge. My seams aren’t perfect on the insides, but look nice and neat on the outside. I’ll take that!
My only note is that, if you’re going to use boiled wool for an unlined design, expect it to wrinkle. I wore the coat for an hour, before these photos, and signs of wear are evident even after a good pressing, earlier that morning.  Its organic, unstructured nature is part of the charm, in my book. For more tailored designs, definitely consider those lining options well, however.
Underneath this coat is another version of the Cashmerette Turner Dress, which is easily my favorite pattern of the last few months. It’s a simple design, but also a timeless one. Depending on fabric and design variations, soooo many different looks are possible with this pattern. Plus, those multiple cup sizes are amazing. I will never be able to praise Jenny enough for making the FBA a thing of the past. It’s freeing to skip such a major fitting step! 
For this Turner, I used black and white geometric rayon jersey, also from Mood Fabrics. This fabric is extra stretchy, drapes like a dream, and has abstract hearts and circles marching diagonally across the print. It’s absolutely beautiful and just a little strange, which I dig. In order to take advantage of this fabric, properly, I made a few small changes to the pattern: 
  • Rounded the neckline and subbed in a neckband, in place of the lining. 
  • Elongated the shoulder seam slightly to give it the illusion of a cap sleeve, which I thought would be fun with those diagonal stripes. 
  • Kept the 1″ added to both the bodice and skirt, last time. 
Like my other knit makes, I constructed this one in the usual way. It’s sewn on my machine, with a lightning bolt stitch for the seams and small zig-zag for the hems. Lightweight fusible webbing is used on both the skirt and sleeve hems to stabilize them and make sewing much, much easier. 

I really adore this pairing, y’all. A black-and-white print worn with bright red statement pieces is one of my favorite combinations, especially at the holidays. It’s festive, but also works at other times of the year. You can deck the halls or just bundle up for an elegant evening out. Even better, this coat is eerily similar to wearing a gigantic blanket. Between it and the secret pajamas factor of a knit dress, it feels like I’m cheating at dressing up! When I’ve eaten record amounts of holiday food, that’s a definite win.
Happy New Year, kittens! I hope you had a joyful holiday season, filled with friends, family, cake, and maybe even a little selfish sewing time! I’m really looking forward to seeing what 2017 has in store for us all. 
Note: The fabric for this post was provided by Mood Fabrics, free of charge, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network. All opinions and thoughts are my own, however, and I choose all my MSN fabrics. 
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Pattern Roundup: Curvy Coats and Jackets

It still may feel like summer, but in some parts of the world, folks are starting to (or will soon) feel a chill in the air. Insert obligatory Game of Thrones reference: Winter is coming! And that means coats and jackets are sure to be a necessity faster than you think! Clockwise from top left:…

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The Hoodless Pepernoot Coat From Waffle Patterns

I had great fun doing the sew along for the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat. While working on the coat, I found the pattern to be quite versatile. Below you see Yuki’s version which has the faux fur band on the hood and the quilted lining. A great&…

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A Little This And That On Thursday/Chicago Marathon and The Pepernoot Coat

What in the world does the Chicago Marathon have to do with the Waffle Pattern Pepernoot Coat??? Absolutely nothing :)Last fall, I decided that I would like to do the Chicago Marathon this year, and do it not only for myself, but for a charity that I a…

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Fashion Show Friday/Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat and Sewn Square One Upline Jacket

It has been quite some time since I’ve modeled a garment for you, so I thought that I would do a bit of catch up today. There are so many that I haven’t modeled, so just a few today, and more later.  First up, the coat that I just finished for the…

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A Few Notes On Wednesday/The Final Pepernoot Coat Sew Along Post

At about 3 o’clock this morning, both of my dogs were snuggled in close to me when a HUGE KA-BOOM!!! shook the house. It was just a big clap of thunder, but I laughed to myself as both dogs immediately left the bed and headed underneath. I always say t…

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Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sneak Peek

It’s a beautiful, but rather cold morning in my part of the world. It was 70 degrees on Sunday afternoon, and this morning…27, and that’s not Celsius!!! Oh well, it is Chicago 🙂 For those of you who may be coming to the Pattern Review Weekend i…

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Attaching The Pockets To the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat

We decided to separate the pockets from the finishing of the Pepernoot Coat as combining everything would have made for a rather long post. Now you’ll have a designated post to refer back to as you tackle the pockets. You can find the post HERE on the …

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I Love My Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat!

We’re in the 3rd week of the Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sew Along and I am in love with my coat. Talk about flower power!!!The fabric I’m using for the lining is from Tessuti Fabrics in Australia. when I purchased the fabric, I had a skirt in mind….

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The Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat Sew Along Fabric Reveal

I can finally reveal the fabric that I have chosen to use for the Pepernoot Coat sew along that I am doing for Sew News. One thing for sure, I will not be lost in a crowd! The body of the coat will be the fabric with the black ground and the cobalt blu…

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Pattern Review and Giveaway: Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat

The Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat is an unlined swing coat featuring raglan sleeves, a back yoke with a deep pleat and inseam pockets.  The sleeves come in two lengths. For the construction of this coat, I followed the instructions for the most part.  After cutting all the pieces out, I serged their edges because…

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The Sew News Pepernoot Coat Sew Along Begins!

It’s finally here!!! The Pepernoot Coat from Waffle Patterns finally begins. It seems like it’s been a long wait. You can find my post on the Sew News blog HERE.This week we talk about the pattern, and the layered aspect, which is great. You may rememb…

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The Winner of The Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat

Wow, what a response we had to the Pepernoot Coat  pattern give away!!! It’s a great pattern, and lots of fun to make. And like I said previously, although it’s a downloadable pattern, there’s a copy shop version, so no need to tape…

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A Rachel Coat – Part 1 – The Inspiration

I had bronchitis a couple of weeks ago so I spent some quality time in bed watching movies, all the tv shows and movies I’d DVR’d, and surfing the web on my iPad. This site, StyleWe, kept popping up as a banner ad everywhere I went which was unusu…

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Meanwhile Back on Planet VeraVenus…

I recently read a Blogging Tips article and I now know it’s terrible that I don’t write regularly (five months of silence is pretty bad so thank you to those who had faith and stayed with me), apparently my SEO is terrible, while starting to write this I should already have a title ( I don’t) to help […]

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Meanwhile Back on Planet VeraVenus…

I recently read a Blogging Tips article and I now know it’s terrible that I don’t write regularly (five months of silence is pretty bad so thank you to those who had faith and stayed with me), apparently my SEO is terrible, while starting to write this I should already have a title ( I don’t) to help […]

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New season, new coat: McCall’s 5525 trenchcoat

Just in time for all my undercover sleuthing needs: a tan McCall’s 5525 trenchcoat! It’s a classic for a reason, folks. I have a fantasy of a wardrobe full of a rainbow of trenchcoats, but decided that I’d start with the workhorse classic, beloved of Burberry et al. This McCall’s pattern is a traditional trenchcoat, with {…Continue Reading}

The post New season, new coat: McCall’s 5525 trenchcoat appeared first on Cashmerette.

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Monday Morning Inspiration

I hope your Monday is off to a great start!Well, I have to say that you all surprised me. Last week’s inspiration post was all about skirts, and I gave you the chance to vote on the skirt that you would most like to see drafted out. I initially had onl…

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