Tag Archive: self drafted

On my Sewing Table – 1920s Evening Dress

Oh my word, how fast is this year spinning by?  I still have a pile of fabrics to use up and patterns to find, not to mention still ploughing through daughter no2’s summer wishlist.  I have done pretty well using up stashed fabric this year, I haven’t calculated any totals yet, not measured anything, but … Continue reading “On my Sewing Table – 1920s Evening Dress”

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On my Sewing Table – 1920s Evening Dress

Oh my word, how fast is this year spinning by?  I still have a pile of fabrics to use up and patterns to find, not to mention still ploughing through daughter no2’s summer wishlist.  I have done pretty well using up stashed fabric this year, I haven’t calculated any totals yet, not measured anything, but … Continue reading “On my Sewing Table – 1920s Evening Dress”

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Draped denim day dress

Here it is; the culmination of my draping class at WVC!  When I say draping class, the assumption is that there are going to be, like, a drape of fabric somewhere on the garment, but really draping is just another way to draft a pattern.  Many of the styles we did as exercises were not “drapey” at all, since the method lends itself well for creating perfectly fitted garments.

It looks very

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All the ruffles

It all started with a Sachin & Babi dress that I fell instantly in love with. At that point, I wasn’t truly intending on making a dress, but I couldn’t stop thinking about how I would do it, if I ever decided to go ahead with it. I actually had the most perfect fabric in […]

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Draped silk blouse

I’m about halfway through my last semester at WVC and I am loving my draping class!  I’ve taken two flat pattern drafting courses, which were amazing too, but draping to create garment designs is just a whole different skill.   So much fun!

Since I work on a dress form that has a similar bust size as me, I can use certain class drapes as designs for myself.  Here’s the original drape from

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Halston knock-off trousers

I was lucky enough to do a bit of modelling a few months ago and I got to wear a pair of amazing Halston pants. They weren’t even in my correct size (there was a bit of back-clipping involved), but I still fell instantly in love with them. The light, drapey fabric screamed Spring, and […]

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Halston knock-off trousers

I was lucky enough to do a bit of modelling a few months ago and I got to wear a pair of amazing Halston pants. They weren’t even in my correct size (there was a bit of back-clipping involved), but I still fell instantly in love with them. The light, drapey fabric screamed Spring, and […]

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Swimmers swimsuit V1

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen that I’m on a mission of sorts. I’m determined to perfect a couple of swimsuit designs, both for myself and my daughters. Swimming is slowly becoming a big part of our lives, so it makes perfect sense that my sewing table would reflect this. We’re […]

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Swimmers swimsuit V1

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen that I’m on a mission of sorts. I’m determined to perfect a couple of swimsuit designs, both for myself and my daughters. Swimming is slowly becoming a big part of our lives, so it makes perfect sense that my sewing table would reflect this. We’re […]

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Super 130s Classic Pants

I’m beyond thrilled with the outcome from my second Couture Sewing School class. I’ve grappled with pants a few times since I started sewing, and whilst I managed to achieve a good crotch curve fit on my own, it was getting the legs right that really proved elusive. This was because of two ‘fitting’ reasons –  I have uber […]

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Couture Sewing School – Day 3, 4, 5 & 6: Basting, Fitting & Sewing

Day 3 and everyone is heads down and bums up thread tracing their pattern pieces. I’m definitely thinking I’m glad for sewing pants and not a jacket purely because there are far less pieces! I’m finished up thread tracing by mid morning and get stuck into sewing the double welt openings on the back of […]

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Box Pleat Skirt, Self Drafted

Welcome back!  I have had this fabric for about 8 years, and have gone back and forth trying to figure out what to do with it.  I know a friend back in high-school had the same fabric and made a purse out of it.  I wanted to make a dress, but every-time I sew a…

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SUMMER STAPLE // SELF DRAFTED LINEN SHIRT DRESS

The nice thing about having a bunch of blocks and half drafted patterns sitting around Read More >>

You’re reading SUMMER STAPLE // SELF DRAFTED LINEN SHIRT DRESS by Closet Case Files. If you’ve enjoyed this post you can also follow us on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook.

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Astoria sweater + swishy skirt = new fave outfit

This rayon from Britex caught my eye, and I just couldn’t shake it.  It’s not a typical color palette or print for me, but I had to have it and I knew exactly what I’d make with it: a dirndl skirt.  A dirndl is not my favorite silhouette, but with this fabric, it all just felt like good fun for the summer.

The pattern for the skirt was self-drafted, using the Maritime Shorts waistband as

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Silicon Valley Comic Con!

Let’s just wrap up all unfinished, lingering costumes and their respective blog entries, shall we? SVCC was two months ago, and I never got around to blogging my costumes from that, either.[pc: Edwin Fabian]I pretty much decided right from the sta…

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Silicon Valley Comic Con!

Let’s just wrap up all unfinished, lingering costumes and their respective blog entries, shall we? SVCC was two months ago, and I never got around to blogging my costumes from that, either.[pc: Edwin Fabian]I pretty much decided right from the sta…

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Miss Veronica Drafts on Potential: Brazos Tunic

Hello there, kittens! After six weeks without blogging, thanks to various travels and a shoulder injury that made sewing hazardous, I have things to show you. Prepare for a barrage of Idle Fancy posts, in the coming weeks. My riding jacket is finished,…

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My winter uniform

I should have titled this post “4 skirts from the same pattern + 1 with a slight variation”.  However, the reason I sewed 5 skirts in the past 1-2 months is due to a “perfect storm” of three independent events:  on-going discussion I’ve been having with my good friend of mine + an epiphany I had recently + a tear-inducing haircut, which all added up to = my winter uniform 2016.

My friend Edie

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What I made to wear to the French Laundry

Spoiler alert: I didn’t wear this outfit (insert sad face).

When I found out we had gotten highly-sought after reservations to the French Laundry, I immediately knew I wanted to wear something me-made.  After all, I was so proud of having worn a complete handmade outfit to Quince for my birthday.  But other than men having to wear a jacket, there isn’t a lot of guidelines for what to wear to

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The velvet dress // from fabric dyeing to construction

Up until this year, I’ve never really given velvet a second glance. I used to walk past the carefully perched rolls of velvet at Tessuti Fabrics and sigh, and perhaps tentatively stroke them, but I couldn’t really see how such a lush fabric could fit into my wardrobe. This season is different. I’ve got images of velvet playsuits and blazers stuck in my head. I’d actually like to make all the velvet things but I had to decide on just one. I toyed with the idea of playsuit, but opted for a more classic style of dress instead. I think the simple design of this dress will have more longevity in my wardrobe. You’ll have to forgive the scrunched up sleeves and trust me when I say the fit is pretty spot on. I could scoop a smidgen more out of the lower back curve, but with normal walking/moving, those wrinkles aren’t actually that noticeable. I really just need an assistant to straighten me up before photos. The dress is a faux wrap design with a crossover bodice and wrap skirt. The fabric is a woven, not …

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The velvet dress // from fabric dyeing to construction

Up until this year, I’ve never really given velvet a second glance. I used to walk past the carefully perched rolls of velvet at Tessuti Fabrics and sigh, and perhaps tentatively stroke them, but I couldn’t really see how such a lush fabric could fit into my wardrobe. This season is different. I’ve got images of velvet playsuits and blazers stuck in my head. I’d actually like to make all the velvet things but I had to decide on just one. I toyed with the idea of playsuit, but opted for a more classic style of dress instead. I think the simple design of this dress will have more longevity in my wardrobe. You’ll have to forgive the scrunched up sleeves and trust me when I say the fit is pretty spot on. I could scoop a smidgen more out of the lower back curve, but with normal walking/moving, those wrinkles aren’t actually that noticeable. I really just need an assistant to straighten me up before photos. The dress is a faux wrap design with a crossover bodice and wrap skirt. The fabric is a woven, not …

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All the straps

top/skirt/bra: self-drafted This summer I was planning my Plymouth trip wardrobe and somehow stumbled upon the perfect summer lake house tank top. Whenever we’ve gone there in warm weather I’ve basically lived in a swim suit, maybe a pair of shorts. I wanted something I could throw over a swim suit that would still look cute […]

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Floral Circle Skirt and Cropped Sweatshirt

This post is a two-fer! A whole me-made coordinating outfit. I’m teaching a bunch of sewing classes these days at a local Austin store, including a circle skirt class. I made this skirt as an example based on my measurements.… Continue Reading

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Best laid plans & all that

Sooo…  Sewing an Autumn/Winter wardrobe.  Sort of going ok, but a little sidetracked!  A wedding invitation has scuppered my sewing plans a little.  Admittedly, we did receive the invitation some time ago, definitely way before I made my sewing plans, … Continue reading

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Sweet Ambassadrice – Knit dress with circle skirt and collar

[For the Italian version of this post, press the Italian flag on the right –
Per leggere questo post in italiano, premi la bandierina italiana sulla destra]

A few weeks ago, I had just left school and was distractedly scrolling through my Instagram feed on the subway, when I saw that Portugal-based French fabric and notion store, The Sweet Mercerie, was having the second edition of a mini contest called “Sweet Ambassadrice”.
Basically, they presented this graphic print fabric and invited people to send their ideas on what to make with it. They would provide fabric to the three people whose idea they’d like the most.

I thought it was such a fun and stimulating idea! So, as soon as I got home, I sent a VERY raw sketch of a dress with a plain bodice, a circle skirt, and a peter pan collar (of course). I liked the contrast of the graphic print with a very feminine shape, and the heaviness of the fabric (230 gr/m²) combined with such a full skirt.

Well, as you might have guessed by now, I was chosen!

I ended up having to rush the construction of this dress, because the fabric took a while to arrive all the way from Portugal, and then I was away for a week at Abilmente (such a fun experience).

In the end, what I did was:
– using my bodice sloper, removing the darts, lowering the neckline and the armhole curve. No ease was added.
– drafting narrow 3/4 length sleeves, a circle skirt and a collar. I ended up with a Chelsea collar, as I thought a round shape would clash too much with the lines of the fabric.

That might seem like a lot work, but if you have some practice in drafting patterns, you’ll know that wasn’t difficult at all.
I serged everything together, making minor fit adjustments as I went along, then sewed the collar and finished the neckline with bias tape. I hemmed the sleeves and the skirt with a narrow zigzag stitch.

It was a really, really quick project, and it’s not a perfect one by far. I’ll probably go back and adjust the waist a little more, as well as getting some help with evening out the skirt’s hem (it’s a bit wonky).

I must admit I wasn’t 100% in love with this dress, but the more I look at these photos, the more I like it. It feels like wearing a very feminine, fitted blanket, so it’ll definitely be great for colder months.

If you like this fabric and purchase it for yourself, though, don’t forget that it’s very heavy. If you want to avoid the “blanket” effect (which I actually wanted), you can always switch the circle skirt with a pencil skirt, or just make a super cool sweater with it (for example using the Ondée pattern by Deer & Doe)!

  • Modello: fatto da me (dettagli sotto)
  • Modifiche: rispetto al modello originale, ho stretto un po’ i fianchi e alzato la vita.
  • Tessuto: tessuto elasticizzato in poliestere con motivi grafici di The Sweet Mercerie; anche il tessuto del colletto proviene dallo stesso negozio, ma non so quale sia la composizione (credo viscosa?).
Qualche tempo fa, stavo distrattamente controllando il mio feed Instagram mentre ero sulla metropolitana, quando mi sono imbattuta in questa iniziativa del negozio di tessuti francese (basato in Portogallo), The Sweet Mercerie, chiamata “Sweet Ambassadrice: in pratica, presentato un tessuto scelto da loro, invitavano a mandare idee su cosa realizzarci. Le tre ragazze con le idee preferite da loro avrebbero ricevuto il tessuto necessario per ricreare tale capi.

“Che bella idea!” ho pensato, e stimolante, proprio in un periodo in cui ho veramente bisogno di stimoli per rimettermi a cucire per me stessa. 
Così, appena arrivata a casa, ho subito mandato uno schizzo (bruttissimo, per altro) di un abitino con corpino semplice, gonna a ruota, e colletto Claudine (ovviamente).
Mi piaceva molto il contrasto tra la stampa grafica e una silhouette estremamente femminile, così come l’associare il peso alto del tessuto (230 gr/m) ad una gonna così ampia.
E beh, se siete molto, molto perspicaci avrete capito che sono stata scelta! 🙂
La costruzione di quest’abito è stata estremamente frettolosa, purtroppo, poichè il tessuto ci ha messo un bel po’ ad arrivare dal Portogallo e perchè la settimana scorsa sono stata a Vicenza per Abilmente (che esperienza stupenda!!!).
Per riassumere, ecco com’è nato quest’abito:
– Per il modello, ho usato la mia base del corpino, ho eliminato le pince e abbassato scollo e giromanica.
– Ho disegnato delle maniche aderenti a 3/4, una gonna a ruota e un colletto con un pochino di montante. Invece del collo Claudine (o Peter Pan) ho scelto un colletto a punta, avevo paura che la forma arrotondata stonasse con le righe dritte del tessuto.

Può sembrare un lavoro lungo, ma con un po’ di esperienza sulle spalle di modellistica, si tratta di un processo estremamente semplice.

– Ho poi cucito tutto a tagliacuci, facendo prove ed aggiustamenti intermedi. Ho cucito il colletto, l’ho attaccato allo scollo e ho rifinito con dello sbieco. Ho fatto l’orlo a maniche e gonna con uno zigzag molto stretto.

E’ stato un progetto superveloce, e anche per questo, non proprio perfetto. Voglio stringere ulteriormente la vita e farmi dare una mano per livellare l’orlo, che in questo momento è un po’ stortino, anche se in queste foto lo sembra più di quello che non sia davvero, poichè non mi sono sistemata bene l’abito addosso (infatti anche la linea della vita sembra stortissima).

Una volta finito, non è che ne fossi proprio innamorata, ma più guardo queste foto e più mi piace. Sembra di indossare una coperta super femminile e aderente; sicuramente nei mesi più freddi sarà un alleato niente male, per me che odio infagottarmi anche con -5° fuori.

Se vi piace questo tessuto e intendete acquistarlo per voi, non scordate che è davvero molto pesante. Se volete evitare l’effetto “coperta” (che io ho invece voluto), scegliete una gonna meno ampia (o addirittura una gonna a tubino), oppure fermatevi al busto e fate un bel maglioncino (ad esempio usando il modello Ondée di Deer&Doe)! 

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The Wizard’s Coat

Hello everyone, and we are back with your regular scheduled programming of dance costumes!  This is for the Illini West Dance Team, the theme is Wizard of Oz and this is the Wizard!  This is an asymmetrical jacket with a mega puff sleeve on one side and a pocket on the other. Pictured above is…

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Wrap skirt // stashbust

I had a little bit of wool fabric and lining leftover after the making of Miss Seven’s tailored coat. It was precisely the right amount for ladies skirt. Fancy that. My original plan was to make a simple, straight skirt using my own skirt sloper. However, when I laid out the wool, it was a lot wider than I remembered and it suddenly seemed a shame to limit myself to a pencil skirt when there was clearly more fabric I could work with. Starting with a basic pencil shape, I left the back skirt piece unchanged. I then traced the front skirt piece in full, mirroring the pieces as if to avoid cutting on the fold. In the diagram below, the grey shaded pattern is my altered front piece. I extended the waist along the existing pattern line and shortened the hem width a little. I then simply connected these points with a diagonal line. It was very important to identify and mark the CF point. This was a perfectly fitted skirt pattern and those CF points needed to match up when …

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Tinkerbell Grew Up!

Hello everyone!  So there is a super cute story behind this costume!  My client’s daughter wanted to be Tinkerbell and so when her little costume came in she came up and hugged her mom and said, with the cutest look, “Mommy, I want you to be Tinkerbell with me!”  How can you say no to…

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Self Drafted Skandi Skirt

Hi there!

I’d like to share my first attempt at pattern drafting with you today.  I’ve seen a lot of box pleated midi skirts around lately and thought I’d have a go at drafting my own.  It was a lot of fun.


I started with this highly technical drawing:

The dimensions are taken from a 8 panelled RTW midi skirt I bought a couple of years ago.  I thought it was a pretty good place to start from.

Even though the “inspiration” skirt has a straight waistband I drafted a curved one based on my skirt block.  I find curved waistbands much more comfortable than straight ones.

Once that was done, I divided the measurement along the bottom seamline of the waistband by 8 to get the top width of my panels.  It was almost exactly the same as the measurement from the RTW skirt, so I used the same hem width for each panel as the RTW skirt has. 

I then decided how deep I wanted the pleats to be – 1 inch – and therefore added 2 inches to each side of my basic panel piece, curving the waist and hem with my pattern master.

I made it a bit more complicated than I needed to initially because for some reason I decided I needed to make it panelled, as the RTW skirt was, hiding the seams inside the pleats.  I was going to have 2 centre panels front and back, with pleats either side and between them, and then side panels without pleats at the side seam. 

The dashed line in the photo above shows where I marked the cutting line for the side panels.  I traced this off and ended up with the two pieces below.

However when it actually came to cutting out I came to my senses and realised I didn’t need seamed panels, so I pinned the side piece over the seam allowance for the centre panel and cut one complete front and one complete back, marking the top of the pleats with snips into the fabric.

When it came to sewing I stitched the tops of the pleats down 2 inches from the edge, and then pressed and stitched them in place.

Here’s a photo of one piece before I sewed them together and added the waistband.

The construction was pretty straightforward.  I cut two front and two back waistbands and interfaced one of each.  Then there was just two side seams to sew, a lapped zip to insert and the hem.  The seam allowances are all finished with the overlocker.

This is a pretty different style for me, both in terms of shape and fabric, but I think I like it.  The fabric by the way is from Ikea, I think it was £4.00 a metre.  I easily got this out of 2 metres, even allowing for pattern matching.

I envisage wearing it like this most often, with a black top and opaque tights, but also like it with the denim shirt I’ve styled it with below.  I think that needs sheer tights though, the black look a bit heavy.  I’d also like it with a black blouse – I think I’ll feel most comfortable pairing it with black – or a cropped top that sits just over the waistband.



So that’s my first attempt at pattern drafting.  It was a pretty straightforward style for a first go, but I’m really pleased with how it turned out.  Now to make some tops to go with it!

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Wizard of Oz Toto Dance Costume

Hello Everyone!  Next up in the dance team competition Wizard of Oz themed dance is Toto!  Now the mess with fur is real, especially because I sewed both this and the Lion in the same night.  I figured I would just have the mess all in one night, than to have to drag it on…

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